Saturday, December 29, 2007

Cat Furniture - How Do You Decide What Is Fine For Your Feline?

By Jennifer Akre

If you want to be able to save your furniture from the claws and abuse of your feline friends, you need to make sure they have some furniture of their own. Thankfully there is a wide variety of cat furniture on the market that you can let your fuzzy pal romp on day in and day out, knowing your furniture will last longer because of it.

But do you know how to pick out cat furniture? If you haven't taken a look in the furniture area of your favorite pet store you may not be aware that there is a huge market in pet furniture and quite a variety of pieces to choose from. Here are some things to take into consideration when selecting the right piece for your cat or cats.

- Weight - How heavy is your cat? If you have more than one, you need to know the weight of each of them. All pieces of cat furniture differ in what they can handle, some pieces are made for smaller cats, who aren't going to stress the joints, others are heavy duty pieces made for monster cats. Look for the maximum load capabilities before making a purchase.

- Style - while you may not think style is a consideration to make in cat furniture, it really is these days. Gone are the days where cat furniture was just a scratching post. Now they come in various shapes, sizes and colors. From a bed that is as modern as your living room furniture, to a three-tiered tree with perches that are the same color as your living room sofa.

- Materials - Discerning pet parents like to know just what they are putting their pet on. Just like people, animals can have allergies or reactions to some chemicals. When they play on these pieces your cat is likely going to claw and chew the furniture and could ingest some of the materials used in the making of it. Read up on the cat furniture you are looking to buy to see what kind of materials were used in construction and if there were any chemicals used. If possible, look for natural products.

- Safety - No one wants a pet in pain. Once you have selected the cat furniture you are going to have for your feline, make sure it's safe. Feel around on it, inside and under the piece. For those that are covered with carpet or sisal rope, it's possible some of the tacks used to hold it together have not been hammered down and are just waiting for your cats paw to come into contact, or worse, an eye. Feel all the edges and carpeted areas for anything sharp and hammer them down before letting your cat start playing.

Keeping these few topics in mind as you start your shopping for cat furniture will help create a home that is more happy for your cat, and make your home furnishings a lot happier that they are no longer the subject of your cats clawing desires.

As the owner of many online sites, author Jennifer Akre, shares her insight on how to make your pet's living space more comfortable with crazy cat furniture, cozy cat houses and climable cat trees.

Friday, December 21, 2007

Interesting Facts About Tigers

By Omer Ashraf

Here are some interesting facts about tigers:

1. Tigers are the largest naturally occurring specie of cats.

2. Of tiger subspecies, the Siberian Tiger is the biggest cat that can weigh well up to eight hundred pounds.

3. Tigers are very beautiful and their striped coat makes for ideal camouflage.

4. A tiger's stripes are like fingerprints - no two are alike. In fact the stripes' pattern is often used to identify individual tigers in the wild.

5. In India paw prints or pug marks are often used by local wildlife officials to identify individual tigers. However, this technique is now deemed to be flawed since an individual tiger may leave several different types of paw prints depending on its speed and terrain.

6. Tigers are largely solitary cats and are most active between dusk and dawn.

7. Tigers are largely muscular and rely on stealth and power to bring down a prey rather than speed. Like other big cats most tiger ambushes are unsuccessful.

8. Tigers are perhaps the most notorious big cat for man-eating. In fact the single greatest man-eater is history is believed to be the Champawat Tigress who killed over four hundred thirty people in India decades ago until she was finally killed by the great Jim Corbett.

9. Tigers are highly ferocious and unlike the laid back male lion, it's never wise to turn your back to a tiger even in captivity. Even seasoned zoo keepers report tigers assume a stalking position and prepare to strike when they turn their back to them in the cage.

10. Tigers have suffered greatly at the hand of humans for their beauty and majestic appeal - they have been hunted nearly to extinction in most of their former territories - the largest pool is now in India where recent reports suggest there may be as few as fifteen hundred of the Bengal tigers remaining.

11. An adult male tiger in the wild requires around one hundred and fifty kilograms of meat a month.

12. If Chinese traditional medicine makers were to stop using animal parts - tigers, rhinos and many other endangered animals would benefit greatly.

13. One of the best places for watching tigers in the wild is the Bandhavgarh National Park in Madhya Pradesh in central India.

The author is a blogger about cats and an expert on tiger.

Saturday, December 15, 2007

Get Your Outside Cat Ready For Winter

By Ernie Carroll

With cold weather setting in for the winter, it's time we prepare our cats that are relegated to being outside.

Cats, like dogs, are sometimes for one reason or another, kept outdoors. No matter what the reason, they should be prepared for the experience. For example, a cat that is used to staying indoors should not suddenly be thrust out in cold weather. You first must acclimate the cat/kitten to weather change.

If you purchase a cat/kitten in winter, you should start by putting them out in increments. Start out by letting them out for no more than 1 1/2 hours at a time 3 or 4 times a day, then increasing the time over a period of one to two weeks, depending on the outside temperature. Do not leave them out overnight until they are staying out on their own at least 12 hours during the day.

You will find that once they start spending more time outdoors, they will find more things to keep them occupied, hence, they are more willing to stay out.

Now that your cat is staying outside, you will have to keep food and water for them. In cold weather this can be a chore. I have found to save time from thawing water out constantly, keep two metal coffee cans. (plastic splits when it freezes) Keep one with water outside for your cat, one inside handy (or already filled), and replace as needed. Take one out, bring the frozen one in to thaw.

Now that your cat is acclimated to the cold weather and has fresh water to drink, he also has to eat. By all means, do not give your cat dry food and then put warm water on it. This causes more problems when the water freezes. Choose a good quality dry cat food, and keep it dry. This way you do not have to worry about the food freezing. We like to use a styrofoam plate placed on the front porch out of the weather, held down by a thumbtack to keep the wind from blowing it away.

Now your cat must have a place to call home when he needs some warmth on those cold days and nights. Here is what I do! Take a cardboard box, preferably not much bigger than your cat (this keeps the heat in better), Open one end, put some straw or other bedding inside (this may have to be changed occasionally if it gets damp). You can also use old towels or other throwaways for the bedding. I like to place the opening to the box facing a wall or something large enough to keep it out of the wind.

I hope now you and your cat are ready to face the winter!

Information supplied and written by Ernie Carroll of Cat Care
Your Complete Cat Care Solution.

Thursday, December 13, 2007

Indoor Cats vs Outdoor Cats

By Sunil Tanna

Of course as a responsible and loving pet owner, you want to ensure that your cat is both happy and safe. In aiming for those goals, one of the most important decisions that you must make is whether your cat should be an outdoor cat or not.

Many people feel that the only truly happy cat is an outdoor cat. While it's certainly true that cats have been domesticated for many millennia, it's also true that they still many retain attributes and behaviors of their wild ancestors. When we see a cat chasing a squirrel or stalking prey, we see the cat performing its natural behaviors, and we assume that as a result it is a happy cat. On the other hand, an indoor cat seems to be deprived of many, if not all, such opportunities.

The other side of the coin is that, from a safety point of view, provided you ensure that your home is cat-safe, indoor would be the only way to go. Outdoor cats face risks that indoor cats do not:

- Outdoor cats can be killed or injured by road traffic.

- There are unfortunately some malicious people out there, who may injure, harm or steal your cat.

- Outdoor cats may get involved in fights with other cats, wild animals such as foxes (including urban foxes), and dogs.

Of course, all of these risks (except perhaps for wild animals) tend to be much higher in urban and densely populated areas.

All of these issues are something that you will need to consider when deciding whether your cat should be an indoor or outdoor cat. The indoor/outdoor choice is not a simple one: you must carefully weight up all the advantages and disadvantages of both lifestyles for your cat.

By S. Tanna. First published at http://www.guide2pets.com/p1_articles_cats_indoor_or_outdoor.php

Discover more pet articles, info and shopping at http://www.guide2pets.com/

Tuesday, November 27, 2007

Ways To Get Rid Of Cat Urine Odor

By Harold Febis

If you have a cat you may have to face the job of clean-up cat urine odor from carpets and you know how hard removing cat urine odor can be. Cats drink little water so their urine is very concentrated and stinking. That ammonia-like smell is so strong that it seems not possible to get rid of.
As cat urine is protein based it is hard to remove. This is because the urine is made up of three major elements. These are the sticky stuff known as Urea, Urochrome the pigments part and the odor Uric acid component.

Because cleaning cat urine is quite a task you might want to learn diverse ways to get rid of it.

Don't use cleaners that contain ammonia

Pass up using ordinary household cleaning products such as carpet, surface, and upholstery cleaners. These products might camouflage the odor of cat urine, but they won't remove it. If you use cleaning products that hold ammonia, it will only magnetize the cat back to the same spots because ammonia smells just like cat urine. Your cat will still be able to smell the urine, which tells the cat that it's a good spot to urinate.

Use a high quality cat urine remover

Choose a product that is made especially for removing cat urine odor. This product could be enzymatic, bacteria-based, chemical- based, or a combination of these. To effectively get rid of cat urine odor you have to use a high quality cat urine remover.

Don't scrub the carpet

Finding the exact spots on the mat to clean could be a major problem. the cat urine is not in the mat but in the mat padding underside so you need to try and remove that cat urine from deep down below the mat. You can do this by pressing down on some towels laid over the mat or by putting some heavy books on top of a towel and let it site over night. It's never a good idea to scrub the mat as it will absorb the urine deep into its fibers.

Use a quality cat urine odor Neutralizer

When a cat feels anxious, it will mark by urinating as a means of communicating to other cats that this is his place. Using any kind of cat urine odor neutralizer when cleaning your carpet is essential to remove any trace of an odor. This is really important, not for you but for your cat. Your cat has a very good sense of smell, and if they smell urine in a spot, they will likely go there again. A good quality cat urine odor neutralizer should be used after you have cleaned the area very well. An enzyme based cat urine remover is needed to completely clean away cat urine.

By following these tips you will get rid of cat urine odor sooner than you think.

For more information about tips ways to get rid of cat urine odor visit our websites at: http://www.caturineremover.info http://gemailmarketing.com/caturine

Friday, November 23, 2007

Why You Should Want to Get Rid of Cat Fleas!

By Michelle Noble

Does your cat have fleas? A cat that is scratching and biting itself definitely has some kind of skin irritation, and it could be caused by cat fleas. There are several ways to determine if fleas are the source of your cat's angst.

Fleas are small dark brown insects that are visible to the eye if you part the fur and examine your cat's skin. They have powerful back legs and are capable of jumping and moving easily through fur. If you are unsure, stand your cat on a piece of white paper, and rough up the coat. Should dark specs fall onto the paper, lightly spray them with a demister bottle containing water. If the dark specs then appear to 'bleed' onto the paper with a reddish stain, you are seeing flea dirt- the feces of adult fleas, composed mainly your cat's dried blood. A salt and pepper colored residue on your cat's skin is also a good sign of fleas. The white specs are flea eggs and the dark specs are the flea 'dirt' upon which the newly hatched larvae will soon feed.

There are several adverse effects of fleas, both for your cat and for other mammals, including humans, sharing the environment. The initial bite from a flea causes itching and irritation; however many cats develop an allergic response to the flea's saliva, causing significant discomfort and distress. Cats that are allergic to flea bites often chew the affected area until the skin loses its hair and the area is red and raw. Dermatitis can result from this allergic response, causing the cat a continual aggravation- it's the itch that just won't go away!

Cat fleas also act as a host to an intestinal parasite- the dog tape worm- which is ingested by your cat during grooming. Many fleas carry a tapeworm cyst. These tapeworms develop inside your cat's intestines, exiting as small worm segments around the anus. This is a very common form of tapeworm in cats and fleas are the root cause.

Perhaps the most serious effect of fleas is the anemia that accompanies a virulent infestation, particularly in kittens. Untreated, a young cat can die from blood-loss or develop haemobartonellosis, a complication from the anemia caused by a microorganism carried by the flea. Blood transfusions, antibiotics and steroids are some of the treatments that may be required to save a cat struck down by this illness.

While the adverse effects of cat fleas on your pet are obvious, they are just as serious for humans. We are equally capable of developing a painful and allergic reaction to flea bites as our pets. Since fleas can jump more than 12 inches, they have the capacity to swarm our feet, ankles and lower legs, attacking us relentlessly as they gorge themselves on our blood.

Now that you understand the seriousness of fleas on a cat, you can take steps to get rid of cat fleas.

Michelle Robinson has been an animal advocate and pet lover all her life. She is particularly committed to the wellbeing of domestic pets-cats, in particular. She knows that the distress caused by cat fleas harms your cat's health. For information about cat fleas, and solutions that work to cat flea problems, visit her website at http://www.flealesscats.com

Wednesday, November 21, 2007

Causes Of Feline Obesity, Or Why Your Cat Is Fat

By Darlene L. Norris

Did you know that nearly half of the cats in the US are obese? This doesn't mean just a little overweight, but seriously fat! If your kitty is one of them, he's at risk for feline diabetes, arthritis, and other life-threatening health issues.

Why are our kitties getting heavier and heavier? Pure and simple, we're just feeding them way too much. You can't argue with the fact that you'll gain weight if you take in more calories than you use. This is true whether you're a person or an animal. It used to be that we had to work hard to get our food. Kitties did too. Their food didn't just magically appear in their dishes; they had to go out and hunt for it. They got plenty of exercise hunting. Portion control played a role here too, as a mouse is only so big. If he wanted more to eat, he had to hunt for it.

Most of us leave dry food out all the time for our buddies. This is called "free choice feeding." We all think our babies will starve if they don't have food available to them all the time. But the truth is that free choice feeding is probably the single biggest cause of feline obesity. Your furball won't appreciate this, but throw that feeder away! Start feeding him two or three times a day instead. Cut back on his portion size too. Feed according to his target weight, not according to what he weighs.

Dry food is extremely high in carbohydrates, since it's mostly grain. Your kitty was meant to eat meat, not grain. The extra carbs are stored in his body as fat. Plus carb-rich food causes his blood sugar to stay higher for longer, causing insulin resistance. And he's well on his way to feline diabetes at this point. Most dry foods are low in protein. For this reason, feeding a high-quality canned food is healthier for your furball. And many kitties lose weight when they're changed over to canned food.

Don't get hung up on the recommended feeding instructions on the bag or can. It's a known fact that if you feed your kitty the amount recommended on the bag, he'll eventually get too heavy. A kitty that's been spayed or neutered needs only 75-80% of the amount of food an intact feline needs. Remember that spaying or neutering will NOT make your furry friend fat. He'll only get fat if you feed him too much. If your buddy doesn't get much exercise, he needs less food, too. And like humans, as your buddy gets older, his metabolism slows down, and he's more prone to gaining weight. So you may need to adjust his food intake as he ages. Regardless of what the bag says, if he's gaining weight, feed him less!

We love our furballs, and we think we need to show our love with food, which is why cat treats sell so well. Most of these treats have a high carb level, and flavoring that encourage your kitty to eat when he's not hungry. Sound familiar? If your kitty is roaming around restlessly and meowing, this is normal behavior for a feline. It doesn't mean he's hungry. Never give him a treat to make him be quiet. All you're doing is rewarding him for vocalizing, and he'll do it more. Give him your attention instead.

Most kitties seem to spend all their time sleeping. If you want your buddy to lose weight, you need to increase his activity level. This can be hard to do, as it's hard to take your kitty for a run like you would with a dog. Plus cats are often left alone for hours, and there's nothing else to do but sleep.

You may want to consider adopting a kitten. Once they get used to each other, they'll probably run around playing and chasing each other. If this isn't feasible, try to find some toys that will get him moving. He'd probably enjoy playing with a fishing pole-type toy. A video with chirping birds or rustling mice may get him up and stalking the TV set.

You need to monitor your buddy's weight so you can adjust his food intake if he starts gaining weight. Get a good scale, and weigh him at least once a week. Preventing weight gain is much easier than taking off unwanted pounds later.

Darlene L. Norris has been owned by many kitties over the years. Now I've combined my love for cats and my life-long interest in herbs and healing at Your Cat Care Guide Information on natural remedies for cats can be hard to find. Stay up-to-date on the latest herbal and homeopathic treatments for your feline friends!

You're feeding your cat a low-carb, high-protein diet, and making sure he's getting more exercise. Is there anything else you can do? Visit http://www.your-cat-care-guide.com/weight-management.html to learn about a natural remedy that's specially formulated to help your pet lose weight naturally by stimulating his metabolism and improving his his body's ability to eliminate fat.

Monday, November 19, 2007

Cat Lovers Rejoice! - Two New Innovative Products to Eliminate the Hassle of Litter Box Cleaning

By Richard Chandler

If you have a cat, or know someone who does, you are probably familiar with the unpleasant odor and cat's litter box can leave behind. Cat owners, especially those who own more than one cat, find themselves constantly bending down to clean out the litter box in order to keep it fresh. This chore is time-consuming, nauseating, and in many cases, tough on your back.

Two new products have recently been invented to make the lives of cat lovers much easier. Unique in their functionality and design, the CatGenie Self-Flushing, Self-Washing Cat Box and the Scoop Free Automatic Self Cleaning Litter Box use different methods and technology for the same goal: to help with the unpleasant task of keeping your cat's litter box clean and fresh.

Scoop Free Self Cleaning Litter Box

The Scoop Free Self Cleaning Litter Box is simple to use, requires no installation, and is very cost effective. Rather than having to deal with the mess associated with pouring cat litter from bags, this device uses its own cartridges that come filled with Fresh Step Crystals kitty litter. Simply lift the unit, remove the old cartridge, and replace it with a new one.

Because of the integrated system and design of the Scoop Free, cat owners can go up to a month without having to change the cartridge if they have one cat. When a cat uses the box, a motion sensor is activated and a twenty minute countdown begins. At the end of the countdown, the integrated rake moves across the litter pushing solid waste into the covered trap at the end. The rake then moves back across the litter to smooth it out and freshen it. There is no scooping (hence the name "Scoop Free"), bagging, or changing of any cartridges for up to a month. The Scoop Free includes an AC adaptor so it can be plugged into the wall and is roughly the same size as a normal cat litter box.

In addition to packs of additional cartridges, two other accessories are available for the Scoop Free Self Cleaning Litter Box. The optional litter box hood provides comfort and privacy for cats that are shy while the optional anti-tracking carpet sits in front of the box to keep your cat from tracking litter or waste through your home. The Scoop Free and its accessories make great holiday gifts for any cat lover and are a "must have" for anyone with physical limitations that make frequent litter box cleaning difficult.

CatGenie Self-Flushing, Self-Washing Cat Box

The CatGenie Self-Flushing, Self-Washing Cat Box is a very unique device that functions as a litter box, acts like a toilet, and cleans like a modern washing appliance. While it is more expensive than the Scoop Free and requires some installation, the CatGenie does not require any manual disposal of waste, scooping, or changing of cartridges.

Using litter-like, washable granules that never need changing, the CatGenie uses the water line and waste disposal abilities of your toilet. Once the cat uses the box, water and a special SaniSolution wash are flushed through it to clean the granules and push the solid waste into a special compartment where it is turned into liquid waste. The waste is then disposed of through your toilet or laundry waste line and the built-in hot air blower dries the granules. The entire process is completely automatic.

Washable granules and the SaniSolution are available for purchase separately along with higher side walls and the GenieDome for your cat's privacy. While it does require some one-time installation, the CatGenie is perfect for elderly people and those with physical disabilities as it eliminates the need to scoop waste and change liners or cartridges.

"How Will My Cat Adjust To These Devices?"

Different cats adjust to change in different ways. Typically cats take to these devices immediately, especially if you put them in the same location as where your old litter box was. In the beginning, you may wish to add a half scoop of your existing cat litter to the granules included with these two devices in order to help your cat adjust to the new box.

Cat lovers are sure to enjoy either one of these devices - your house will not be filled with the unpleasant cat litter odor, the back-straining chore of cleaning the box is eliminated, and most importantly, your cat will be happy.

Richard Chandler researches innovative new healthcare devices, medical supplies, and consumer products for ActiveForever and specializes in writing informative articles and web content. For more information on the Scoop Free Self Cleaning Litter Box or the CatGenie Self-Flushing, Self-Washing Cat Box please visit http://www.ActiveForever.com/

Saturday, November 17, 2007

The Wild Cat Jaguarundi

By Omer Ashraf

Jaguarundi is an interesting feline. It is unlike any other cat in its appearance, resembling an otter, with its small head, short rounded ear, elongated body and tail supported by small legs. Rightly, it has often been called 'Otter cat'. It may weigh from six to twenty pounds and is around forty inches long - excluding a twenty inch tail.

Unlike most other felines, the Jaguarundi, Puma Yaguarondi, has a completely uniformly colored coat. Cubs are spotted at birth like those of lions, but with time the spots disappear to give a coloration ranging from grayish brown to red. Previously the color variations were attributed to unique species of this cat - but now it is understood that they are a normal trait of the Jaguarundi - with different colored cubs found in the same litter. Genetically the Jaguarundi resembles the Jaguar and the Cougar, with a similar chromosomal number.

Though highly adaptable, the natural habitat of this wild cat is dense forest and shrub area. It is an adept fish hunter and is usually found near water courses. Birds are frequently preyed upon, as are rodents, small reptiles, frog and domestic poultry - something that often brings conflict with farmers. It's a good tree climber and a diurnal hunter. The predatory profile varies according to habitat as does its color - with paler variations found more in dry open areas and darker color seen in cats living in thickly forested parts.

Predominantly found in Mexico and South America, Jaguarundi has been seen in Texas, New Mexico and Florida. Various subspecies are recognized - based upon geographical distribution.

Puma Yaguarondi Armeghinoi - Chile and Argentina

Puma Yaguarondi Cacomitli - Mexico and Texas

Puma Yaguarondi Eyra - Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay

Puma Yaguarondi Fossata - Honduras and Mexico

Puma Yaguarondi Melantho - Brazil and Peru

Puma Yaguarondi Panamensis - Ecuador and Nicaragua

Puma Yaguarondi Tolteca - Arizona and Mexico

Puma Yaguarondi Yaguarondi - Guyana and the Amazon

Predominantly a solitary predator, Jaguarundi may be seen to travel in pairs or come together in bringing up of the young. The average litter size is one to four, born after a pregnancy lasting for nearly two and a half months. The young are introduced to regular food at six weeks and gain maturity at around two years. In captivity Jaguarundi has been known to live for up to fifteen years. In the wild the Jaguarundi is seldom sought for its fur - something that's fortunately not in high demand amongst traders. The primary danger to this unique wild cat is through deforestation and habitat destruction - largely due to human intervention in nature!

The author is a blogger about cats and an expert on jaguarundi.

Thursday, November 15, 2007

Persian Cats Origins And Behaviours

By Jin Tuncit

PERSIAN (LONGHAIR) ORIGINS

Long-haired cats are thought to have originated in Asia. Specimens were first brought to the West by travelers during the 16th century. They reached Italy first ant then France and finally Britain. They were probably from Turkey, for they were commonly called Angora (the old name for Ankara). Later specimens, which came from Persia and Afghanistan, had a longer and denser coat and more cobby body. As breeding programs developed, the two distinctive types that we know today, the Angora and the Persian emerged. A book published in 1876 referred to long-haired cats as Asiatic cats. However, breeders were selecting for the more thickly coated and cobby type, increasingly known as the Persian, which was gaining favor over the Angora. By 1901 there were 13 recognized colors which had increased to 160 varieties by the end of the 20th century. In Britain the name was changed to Long-hair, but many countries have continued to call the breed Persian.

PERSIAN CATS PHYSICAL APPEARANCE

A long-haired cat of cobby type with relatively short legs. A distinctive snub nose makes it appear stern, but this is offset by large round eyes that enhance a sweet expression. The head is round and massive, with a great breadth of skull, round face, with round underlying bone structure, set on a short, thick neck. The nose is short, snub and broad, with a dip. The cheeks are full, the jaws broad and powerful and the chin is full and well developed. The ears are small, round-tipped, tilted forward and not unduly open at the base. They are set far apart and low on the head, fitting into (without distorting) the round contour of the head. The eyes are round and full, brilliant, set far apart, giving the face a sweet expression. The tail is short but in proportion to the body length, carried without a curve and at an angle lower than the back. The body is cobby. Large or medium in size, set low on legs. The chest is deep and equally massive across the shoulders and rump, with a short, well-rounded middle piece and level back. The legs are short, thick and strong.

The coat is long and thick, standing out from the body, of fine texture, glossy and full of life. It is long over the body, but a slight shortening of the coat across the shoulder area is not uncommon in older kittens when the coat is changing. The ruff is immense and continues in a deep frill between the front legs. The ear ad toe tufts are very full.

PERSIAN CATS CHARACTERISTICS

It is generally amiable, docile and good-natured, with a soft voice. The Persian's languid nature has earned it a rather undeserved reputation for laziness.

To view the Cutest and the most beautiful Persian cat pictures, please visit my blog at:- http://cuteycats2u.blogspot.com/2007/11/persian-cats-origins-and-behaviours.html

Cuteycats2u.blogspot.com also contains useful cat care and training advises, funny cat videos, cute cat pictures and cat stories. Have fun!!

Tuesday, November 13, 2007

Lost Cats or Strays - What if You Found One?

By Joy Cagil

A pet owner will probably know what to do if his pet is lost. A responsible person will always register his animal with the local authorities and will have the animal wear a tag on his collar. He might also decide to have a microchip installed between the shoulder blades of the animal.

What if you are not a pet owner but found a stray cat or kitten in a busy road or in the middle of nowhere? Such an animal deserves immediate care; otherwise, a car or a bigger animal could kill him, or worse yet, he could fall into the hands of cruel people.

The first thing to do in such a case is to approach the animal slowly with a gentle manner and gain his confidence. If the animal seems friendly enough and allows a stranger to handle him, looking for some kind of identification is the next step. If his tag has the owner's phone number, you can call the owner immediately. If the cat has a license number on his tag, the local county animal agency can trace the animal to the owner.

If the animal has no identification, you may take him to a shelter or to the local animal control agency. If you are afraid the local agency will euthanize the animal, you can ask them to trace the owners and offer to become his temporary adopter until they can do so.

The next step is to take the animal to a veterinarian, even before you take him home with you. This is very important, because you don't know if the animal you found has a sickness or a disease that can infect you, your family members, and your other pets at home. Zoonoses, rabies, cowpox, ringworm, pasteurella, tetanus, Campylobacter enteritis, cat scratch fever, conjunctivitis, Lyme disease, Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, salmonella, toxoplasmosis, hookworms, roundworms, tapeworms, and even plague can be transmitted from cats to humans or to other animals.

If you see a lost cat in the middle of a busy road, take care of your safety first by checking the rear-view window before stopping, signaling your intention, using your hazard lights, and then stopping by the side of the road at a safe place. Don't jump out of our car suddenly, and try to act calmly toward the animal. If he feels uneasy and becomes afraid of you, he may suddenly rush into the traffic and may get killed.

Also, if the animal looks hostile and threatening, it is a better idea to call for help rather than handle him yourself. If the animal is injured, signal the other cars to slow down until you can get the animal to relative safety or find a suitable carrier to take him to your car.

When you approach the animal, make sure he sees you and understands that you are a friend. Try to talk to him in a gentle voice and offer him food if you have it with you. If you have a carrier or a box in the car, put the cat inside it, making sure he gets enough air. An unrestrained animal whose behavior is unknown to you can be a danger to himself and to your driving.

The last but not the least is not to become too attached to a found animal. Not all cats that are lost have irresponsible owners or are abandoned. Some animals just wander away and get lost, while their owners grieve. If you take the lost animal to your home and he becomes part of your household, be ready to hand him over to his original owner if you can find him and if that owner shows up for his pet.

If you want to help stray animals, you may opt to keep some emergency equipment in your car: A carrier or a sturdy box lined with a towel with breathing holes; fresh water and a saucer; dry cat food; the phone numbers of pet shelters, veterinarians, and the local animal control agency.

As animal lovers, we need to keep this in mind: Animals that cannot defend themselves depend on us for survival. We need to do for them what we would want someone else do for us in our hour of need.

This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pets.
Joy Cagil's portfolio can be found at http://www.Writing.Com/authors/joycag

Sunday, November 11, 2007

Cat Trees - Make Your Own and Make Your Kitty Happier

By Jennifer Akre

Cats love to scratch. It's just part of their DNA and who they are. Your trick is giving them something to scratch other than your furniture. Luckily there is a whole world of cat trees out there for you to choose from. Cat trees are those carpet-covered posts that cats can't wait to sink their claws into. If you're creative and want a weekend project, you could even build one yourself.

Here is the list of things you will need:
- 2 Pieces of 2'x2' plywood
- 1 Piece 18" x 18" plywood
- 1 2"x4" that's 6' - 8' long
- 4 long nails
- 8 - 3 inch screws
- Wood Glue
- Fabric 2 pieces 1- 3' x 3', 1 2' x 2' to cover the base and perch.
- Roll of 3/8" sisal rope (or about 500')

Take two of the pieces of plywood (2'x2') and glue them together, making a heavier base. Set them aside to dry.

Cut the 2x4 in order to make two pieces the same size. This piece will be the scratching post portion of the cat trees, so you need to make sure it is long enough that your cat can fully stretch out to scratch. For most cats, 3' - 4' pieces will do.

Now, you are going to put these two pieces side by side (long flat sides touching), to make a long, squared center post. Use some wood glue to hold the pieces together then use an electronic screwdriver to drive the screws through the pieces. You should alternate the screws going in from one side then the other, with none of them within three inches of the top or bottom of the post. If you need to, for harder woods, you can drill a starter hole, but make sure it does not go all the way through both pieces of wood.

Take the single piece of plywood remaining, and center it on the 2x4 post. You need to drive two nails through the plywood, one into each of the 2x4's setting up the post for maximum strength.

It's time to attach fabric to the base and the top of the cat trees. Taking one piece of fabric, wrap it around the base pieces of plywood that have been glued together, pull the edges of the fabric around and staple them to the underside of the plywood. When you turn it over you should have a fabric-covered base. Repeat with the perch piece.

Now you need to put it all together. Put the perch and post face down, and center the base upside down on top of it. Essentially you should be seeing what the cat trees will look like flipped over. You need to drive two nails through the base and into the 2 x 4's to make one solid piece.

Turn it right side up and slather the post with wood glue. Starting at either the top of the bottom tightly wrap the whole post with the sisal rope.

Once it's dry, set it out for your cat's claw of approval.

As the owner of many online sites, author Jennifer Akre, shares her insight on how to make your pet's living space more comfortable with couture cat furniture, fabulous cat houses and stylish cat trees.

Friday, November 9, 2007

Cat Vitamin Recall - Protect You and Your Cat from Salmonella

By Marika Ray

At the urging of the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), the Hartz Mountain Corporation is voluntarily recalling one specific lot of its product, Hartz Vitamin Care for Cats. On November 5, 2007, during routine tests, the FDA discovered that the supplements may possibly be contaminated with Salmonella. The Hartz Company of Baconton, Georgia is fully cooperating on the recall.

Who Is At Risk?

Salmonella is a bacterial organism that can cause serious infections in animals, young children, frail and elderly adults as well as those who have weakened immune systems. Anyone who falls into one of these categories is at risk and needs to avoid exposure to or handling of these cat supplements.

How Does Salmonella Cause Disease?

Salmonella is an intestinal disease spread by bacteria. After the food, or in this case the vitamin, is eaten or taken it passes into the intestines and binds to the intestinal walls. Through some special proteins it creates, it can penetrate the bloodstream.

Once it is inside, it can travel to the liver or spleen. Other types of intestinal bacteria would normally be killed by this process. However, Salmonella has evolved to escape the immune system's function to destroy it. When the Salmonella reaches the liver or spleen it can grow again and be released back into the intestines. At that point, some will be expelled in diarrhea while others will continue the growth process for up to 5 to 7 days.

Once the Salmonella bacteria are expelled from the body, however, they can survive in soil, ground water or rivers to infect the next animal or human that comes along. Because cats use litter boxes and the outdoors, owners who have used this product need to be extremely careful.

What Can You Do to Prevent Salmonella infections?

The best way to prevent the spread of Salmonella is by using safe hygiene. If your cat has used this product and typically goes outdoors, make sure to keep them inside for at least a week.



Dispose your cat's litter daily in plastic bags that have been tied securely.

Put the trash bags in your garbage can immediately.

Disinfect your cat litter box and tools often.

Wash your hands and any contact surfaces with soap and water frequently.

What Are the Symptoms of Salmonella?

Salmonella symptoms can occur in both cats and humans. There are four major symptoms.



Fever

Diarrhea

Abdominal pain

Nausea

If cat owners experience any of these symptoms after using the Hartz Vitamin Care for Cats, they are advised to seek immediate medical attention. Cats who exhibit any of these symptoms should be taken immediately to a veterinarian for diagnosis and treatment.


How Do You Know if You Have the Affected Product?

The product involved is 3,600 bottles of Hartz Vitamin Care for Cats, lot code SZ- 1637 1, UPC number 32700-97701, which was manufactured by a third party manufacturer, UFAC (USA), Inc., in Baconton, Georgia.

While normal testing conducted by Hartz and UFAC has not revealed the presence of Salmonella in any Hartz products, sampling conducted by the FDA did detect the presence of Salmonella. Hartz is aggressively investigating the source of the problem.

What Can You Do with the Affected Product?

Hartz has not received any reports yet that indicate any cats or people have become ill from the vitamin product in question. They are taking precautions to have retail stores and distribution centers remove it from shelves or online sales.

Cat owners should immediately stop using the product and dispose of it quickly and properly. Consumers can contact Hartz at 1-800-275-1414 if they have questions or would like to be reimbursed for the purchased product.

Sources: Associated Press and Salmonella.org

Marika Ray, researcher and writer for Natural Cat Lovers, has 20 years of experience writing for
advertising agencies, magazines and newspapers. She has researched many areas of natural health and has written website articles for nearly a decade. She is the caretaker of four cats she has nurtured
using only natural remedies and behavior methods. She now shares news and tips on cat health care.

Wednesday, October 31, 2007

Animal Species and Humans

By Guy Katir

Training also may take into consideration the natural social tendencies of the animal species (or even breed), such as predilections for attention span, food-motivation, dominance hierarchies, aggression, or bonding to individuals (conspecifics as well as humans). Consideration must also be given to practical aspects on the human side such as the ratio of the number of trainers to each animal: does one animal have a dozen different trainers, and does one trainer attend simultaneously to many animals in a training session?

Other important issues related to the methods of animal training are: operant conditioning, stimulus control, SD (discriminative stimulus), desensitization, chaining, bridge, and the s-delta.

Behaviorism (also called learning perspective) is a philosophy of psychology based on the proposition that all things which organisms do - including acting, thinking and feeling-can and should be regarded as behaviors. The school of psychology maintains that behaviors as such can be described scientifically without recourse either to internal physiological events or to hypothetical constructs such as the mind. Behaviorism comprises the position that all theories should have observational correlates but that there are no philosophical differences between publicly observable processes (such as actions) and privately observable processes (such as thinking and feeling).

Cat communication consists of a range of methods with which cats communicate with humans, other cats, and other animals. While superficially cats may seem to lack social behavior, in fact close study reveals a wide repertoire of subtle behaviors, which serve cats in their natural wild setting where they form organized hierarchies, and in their domestic interactions with humans.

Guy Katir http://www.solikatir.com/Cat-Behavior-Problems.html
Training Secrets to a Well-behaved Feline friend. Learn some techniques and tricks for you cat.

Monday, October 29, 2007

How Can I Train My Kitten To Use A Litter Box?

By D Norris

Usually you don't need to train a kitten or cat to use a litter box. But it's important to establish good litter box habits before your sweet adorable kitten become a problem cat. The following tips will help prevent problems before they start.

Kittens and cats are clean by nature. You can start training a kitten when she's three to four weeks old, if you need to. Most kittens train themselves to use the litter box by the time they're 12 weeks old. But sometimes the stress of going to a new home makes a kitten forget to use its box.

Kittens, like human babies, have an elimination reflex after they eat. So after you feed your kitten, set her in the litter box. She'll learn to associate her box with this reflex.

If you see your kitten sniffing around or squatting down in a corner, pick her up and gently put her in the litter box.

Be sure the litter box is close by. A kitten can't "hold it" like a mature cat, so don't expect her to travel too far! It's also important that she can actually get into the litter box. You may need to use a box with lower sides for a small kitten, or make a step out of a piece of wood or a small flat cardboard box.

The location of the box is important too. A quiet, safe area is important. If you have a dog or an older cat, be sure that the other animal can't bother her when she's her litter box.

Don't put the box near her food dish. You wouldn't eat in the bathroom, and your kitten won't either. She'll probably find another place to do her business instead.

Avoid putting the litter box on a carpeted area, if possible. Your kitten might like the texture of the carpet better than her litter, and start going outside the box.

There are many types of cat litter available today. Avoid cedar-based litters or litters with a strong perfumed scent. Your kitten's sense of smell is much better than yours, and a strong-smelling litter may make her go elsewhere. It can be helpful to use the same litter used in her first home, if possible.

When you clean her box, don't use a strongly-scented cleaner for the same reason. Use a mild cleaner, and rinse the box well.

It's important to keep her box clean and as free of odor as possible. If you use a covered box, you may need to scoop more often, as the cover traps odors. Some cats won't use a litter box with a plastic liner because the urine pools and smells bad to your cat.

If your kitten is not using her litter box, try using a different kind of litter. Clay litter may be hurting her paws. You may need to try a soft, scoopable litter instead.

Also be sure you have enough litter boxes in your home, especially if you have more than one cat. Sometimes cats are not good about sharing!

Start your kitten off right, and you can avoid cat urine odor problems in the future!

Darlene Norris has been owned by many cats over the years. She says, "Is your cat driving you nuts by using your entire house as a litter box? Don't suffer through this for another minute! Visit my website, www.your-cat-care-guide.com for the solution to your problem."

Saturday, October 27, 2007

Tips for Living With a Blind Cat

By Bonnie Koenig

Sometimes cats go blind as they age. This can be a different sort of disorientation to the cat who is born blind. Older cats who find their eyesight decreasing will slowly adapt and use their other senses. If the blindness comes on more suddenly, you may find some fearfulness as the cat adapts to its new limitations.

While all cats should be kept indoors for their safety, this is particularly true for a blind cat. If something chases the cat, they may not know where to run to find safety. Even if they do escape, the sudden movement may disorient them to a point that they are unable to find their way home. Blind cats should always be supervised if they wander outside to sit in the sun. A harness is a great way to keep the cat close but still allow it to smell the outside air and enjoy the sounds of birds.

Keep the household stable. Don't move the furniture. Blind cats will rely on their memory and their whiskers. However, keeping furniture in the same general places will help keep them from bumping into things unexpectedly. This helps them feel more secure in their environment.

It's also helpful to keep litter boxes and food dishes in the same area. Blind cats will find their way to these places by smell. However, all cats hate changes. The stress of changing certain habits is even harder on a blind cat.

Avoid lifting your blind cat as much as possible. Lifting can create a sense of disorientation. If you do have to lift the cat, place it back down in a familiar area. As they get older and go blind, it may be harder for a cat to leap up on a favorite sleeping area, like a bed. A set of stairs can be helpful. Watch as your cat learns to negotiate these things. Such props keep the cat safer. As long as they are doing the movement, they will feel more oriented in their space. They will also feel a greater sense of mastery over their handicap.

An older blind cat still needs play time for stimulation. Noisy or smelly catnip toys are a great way to keep them active.

Cats rely on other senses to a great degree. Although blindness is a handicap, with a minimal amount of effort your blind cat can continue to live out his life safely and happily.

Bonnie Koenig lives with her three cats. She and her Siamese, Cheysuli, maintain their website My Siamese

Thursday, October 25, 2007

Stop Cat From Spraying

By Sara Bijnaam

There are a number of reasons why cats mark:

- Territoriality: the cat is letting other cats know that the marked area is "his" territory
- To communicate sexual availability
- Out of stress or anxiety
- A change of location: some cats will begin to mark when their owners move house
- If a new animal or human is introduced to the house
- Because of overcrowding (too many other cats in the house)
- The cat is receiving less attention than normal
- A significant change in lifestyle or routine (for example, the owner gets a full-time job; someone moves out of home; the house is renovated)

Steps you can take which are likely to either significantly reduce, or stop entirely, your cat's marking:

- Take him for a checkup

There are a huge number of reasons why your cat is choosing to urinate outside the litter box. He may be marking, or there may be a medical cause for the behavior. Before you can decide on appropriate treatment, you need to rule out health-related causes for the inappropriate elimination. Take him to the vet for a urinalysis and an overall checkup, to make sure that there are no medical reasons for his behavior.

- Neuter your cat



Neuter your cat immediately. This is the single most effective thing you can do to stop your cat's spraying, and if you hope to get any control at all over the issue, it's pretty much mandatory.

- Behavioral modification



Behavior modification is a method of controlling your cat's spraying, although it will require a considerable investment of time and effort on your behalf. You'll need to supervise your cat closely, paying attention to where and when he marks. The use of tools like water pistols and shake cans (a tin can with ten pennies or a handful of pebbles inside - when shaken, it makes a loud, scary noise) speed the process up when you startle him out of continuing by either spraying him with the water pistol or shaking the can vigorously.

'Redesignate' the areas which he tends to mark in can also help: cats don't like to spray in areas where they eat, sleep, and play. If he marks in particular places around the home (as opposed to indiscriminately), put his food bowls next to the spot, play with him there, and put his bed there.

- Make things easy for your cat



Treatment for marking is based around removing your cat's motivation to mark in the first place. The most common reasons for marking is territoriality: he could be feeling threatened by the presence of strange cats around the house, or he could be experiencing some conflict with another cat(s) in the house. So, to control his marking behavior, you need to minimize his need to act in a defensive, territorial way.

If the problem's based around a situation in the home, you'll need to pay attention to how your cats are interacting, and then separate the cats that have issues with each other. Keep them in separate rooms, with separate litter boxes and food bowls. This doesn't have to be a permanent thing - once the spraying has stopped, give them at least another week of separation and then you can gradually reintroduce them.

Make sure that there are enough litter boxes in the house: there should be at least one more than the total number of cats. If you have a multi-level house, make sure there's at least one box per floor, and see that they're all cleaned regularly.

For a detailed look at how to deal with your cat's behavior problems, Sara Bijnaam has discovered a cutting-edge cat training manual that's focused on training your cat and changing its behavior for the better. She reveals this resource at http://catbehaviorandtraining.blogspot.com

Tuesday, October 23, 2007

Stress and Litter Box Problems

By D Norris

Is your cat stressed out? You may not realize it until she stops using her litter box.

Cats are creatures of habit. They don't like surprises. So when something happens to upset your cat's daily routine, she may respond to the stress by urinating someplace other than in her litter box.

Moving to a new home is probably the ultimate stressor for your cat. It's pretty traumatic for your cat to suddenly be in a new place she doesn't know.

You can't really prepare a cat for a move, but you can do a few things to make your cat feel more secure. When you get to your new home, keep your cat in one room for a day or two. Be sure she's surrounded by familiar things like her food and water dishes, her bed or favorite pillow, something she can hide in like a box or a large paper bag, and most importantly, her litter box.

Whenever I moved, I always gave my cat something that smelled like me, like a sweatshirt that I had worn. This helped her to feel more secure since she could smell me even if I wasn't there.

Remember to give your cat lots of extra attention every day. Most cats settle down in a few days and start feeling at home again very quickly.

When someone new joins your cat's household, it can be extremely upsetting for your cat. A cat can be terrified by a new baby. Suddenly there's something loud that smells very differently, and it's usually in your lap! Give your cat lots of love and extra lap time if he's a lap baby, and he should adjust quickly.

A new kitten or puppy can stress your cat to the extreme. Your home is your cat's territory, and suddenly, there's another animal there! She may mark "her" territory by urinating all over your house.

Introduce your cats to each other slowly. You may want to keep the newbie in one room for a few days with his own litter box and food and water dishes. Don't be surprised when they sniff each other under the door and then hiss or yowl or swat at each other. This is their way of getting acquainted.

When you let your new kitty out, they may growl and spar for a couple of weeks until they get used to each other. If you want to speed this process up, try wiping each cat's fur with a separate towel every day. Then put each cat's food dish on the other cat's towel. Your kitties will associate the positive experience of being fed with the other cat's scent, and they'll come to tolerate each other much faster.

Be sure each cat has his own secure hiding place he can retreat to. Give each of your kitties equal amounts of love and attention. You'll need a litter box for each cat, plus an extra one, which means that if you have two cats, you should have three boxes.

Cats do have a "pecking order." If a cat leaves the household, it can cause tension among your remaining cats until they establish who the new "head cat" is. This tension can also cause litter box problems.

If you've had two cats who have been together all their lives, and one dies, it can be just as hard on your remaining cat as it is on you. Your cat will probably miss his buddy and may look for her for a few days. Shower your furry friend with lots of love and attention during this adjustment period.

Stress can be a big factor in litter box problems. If you can identify the cause of the stress and remove it, you can solve your cat's urine odor problem.

Darlene Norris has been owned by many cats over the years. She says, "Is your cat driving you nuts by using your entire house as a litter box? Don't suffer through this for another minute! Visit my website for the solution to your problem."

Friday, October 19, 2007

Biting Cat Behavior Prevention

By Jennifer McDonnell

�Why is my cat so mean?� This was a question posed on a message board regarding a cat that would repeatedly bite her owner despite the fact that the owner loved the cat dearly and constantly petted, fawned over and otherwise treated the cat nicely. Well, the short answer to the question is that the cat is not being mean. It is simply being a cat and cats may bite for a number of reasons. For example, did you know sometimes when a cat bites it may be trying to convey it loves its owner? Yes, biting cat behavior can be relatively complex and in order to understand this behavior one need to examine it closely.

If there was one common biting cat behavior that is annoying (and frightening) to people it is when a cat mildly bites your hand when you pet it. Usually, this type of behavior is not so much aggressive as much as it is the cat�s only way of saying �Enough! Stop petting me!� When the cat does this it would be best to just leave the cat alone. Similarly, all cats � 100% of them � will wrap their front and rear paws around your arm and chomp (lightly) into it if you rub their mid-section. This is a primal protection behavioral reaction that is instinctive and not really a sign of over aggression. Again, not all biting is about aggression; however, there are instances where the biting does become benignly aggressive.

Probably the most common instance of benign cat biting behavior is when cat thinks it can play with your hands as in the same way it can with toys. (Cats bite their toys, remember) You must let your cat know that hands are not toys and they are not for biting! If you cat tries to bite your hands when you pet it in a playful manner PULL YOU HAND AWAY and stop petting it. Whatever you do, do not encourage cat biting behavior as this will ingrain a really bad habit that will become very difficult to break down the road.

The second most common instance of benign biting cat behavior occurs when a cat is petted in areas where it is overly sensitive. There is a way to break the cat out of this habit, but it takes a little patience. Now, a cat will never bite you when you pet it on top of its head because this is not a generally sensitive area so you use this to your advantage by slowly moving your hand beyond the cat�s head to its torso region by about a half an inch. Over an extended period of time, you increase your petting area by an additional half an inch. This will gradually wean the cat out of being oversensitive and, hopefully, will break him out of the habit of biting.

As such, biting cat behavior is not because the cat is mean as much as it is because the cat picked up some bad habits, but fear not � these habits can be easily broken if you have the patience!

Are you tired of your cat biting you, your friends and loved ones? When biting cat behavior causes problems with visitors in your home. You need to train your cat to change their behavior. Jennifer McDonnell has helped thousands of cat owners over the years with training their cat to drop their bad habits. You cant learn how to prevent your cat from biting ever again at http://www.catloverslounge.com

Wednesday, October 17, 2007

Cat Training Reward Them With Treats

By David Peters

Cats are trained and encouraged by treats or rewards. A clear illustration of such behavior is when cats come running when it hears the food bag rustle or the can opener�s sound. Cats often relate the sounds to food rewards.

Keep in mind that your cat must be closely examined on a regular basis by the veterinarian, to ensure that there are no unknown problems in your cat�s health that could be aggravated or intensified during training activities.

To further encourage your cat to maintain a good behavior, the most effective way is to offer immediate treats, a full tasty meal, or a favorite toy as rewards.

When saying �good� and offering a treat all together, your cat will later relate the word with its positive act, even if later, food is not available and upcoming. In place of food rewards, you can give your cat an enjoyable playtime or a rub behind its ears.

With the use of positive emphasis and reinforcement, your cat will be willing to learn good behaviors and basic instructions or commands.

Here are training guidelines:

1. It is best to begin training with kittens. They will be more open and responsive to training. Bad behaviors have not yet been formed and not given a chance to develop.

2. Use positive emphasis and reinforcement at all times. A gentle hug, caress, or a whisper has a longer lasting effect than harsh or bitter words.

3. Limit the training time. Make it brief but frequent. Cats normally have short attention and interest spans; so it is much more effective to have four to six sessions of five minutes each, during the course of the day than an hour or two of continuous training.

4. Confine the training to indoors. This is essential so that your cat will not be distracted by other neighboring pets or be attracted to climbing trees instead.

Discipline should be instilled for a well behaved cat, but tough punishment must be avoided. In training your cat so to avoid negative acts, you need to approach it positively. Cats generally will not respond to certain punishments like hitting or yelling. They usually correlate the undesirable act with you rather than with their bad behavior. The outcome will be that your pet either stops loving you or will be afraid of you; not the result that will lead to a loving and warm relationship with your wonderful pet cat! Complete Pet Guide is
committed to bringing you high quality resources and information on dog and cat
pet care and training.

Monday, October 15, 2007

The Benefits Of The Catit Drinking Fountain For Your Pets

By Lucas Tulloch

The pleasures of having animals share your house and life are many. Anybody that owns a pet knows the feeling of coming home on a late winters night cold and tired after work only to be greeted with such happiness by their pet. Studies have long shown that living with animals provides us with quite a variety of physical and emotional benefits. In todays fast paced life stress and depression have become big business and unfortunately common place. It has been shown that living with a pet or pets reduces our likelihood of suffering from depression. The least we can do for our animals in return for the love and good health they give us is to give them plenty of love, shelter, food and a plentiful supply of clean water.

The pet drinking fountain is a revolutionary development that provides pets with a fresh long lasting water supply. As any keen outdoor enthusiast will tell you, if you are stuck for water never drink from still stagnant water, always try and find a source of flowing water. It has been stated that most animals seem to prefer to drink from flowing water than still water. Have you ever seen a cat go to take a drink from it's bowl only after it has checked the surface gently with its paw just to check it really is water? You wont see a cat doing this with flowing water, because it can see by the movement that it is water. This is where the pet fountains come in.

The benefits for the cat of this type of drinking fountain are many. Firstly a drinking fountain has a small filter between the dome fountain and the bowl, so that when water is circulated back into the pump it is first filtered by a carbon filter insert. This makes for clean water all the time and eliminates the problem of insects or other foreign objects falling into the water and making it undrinkable. Because a fountain provides a large surface area for the water to flow down the water is kept cool and oxygenated all the time. Even in summer the water seems to stay nice and cool, much cooler than if it were sitting still in a bowl. Providing your pets, cats in particular, with enough fresh drinking water is essential to the long term health of your pets, especially their kidneys.

The only real downside of pet drinking fountains is the noise the pumps make sometimes. But this usually only happens when the water is almost empty and takes a quick fill-up to fix. Some fountains have at least a 3 litre capacity and can last for 5 or 6 days without needing a refill. When the fountain has a normal water level the it actually makes quite a peaceful and relaxing running water sound.

One great example for a pet drinking fountain is the Catit Drinking Fountain, for more details on such a fountain please Click Here. http://www.catit-drinking-fountain.com

Saturday, October 13, 2007

Chatter Box Cats

By Kate Tilmouth

As humans we are used to communication via words and facial expression. However our feline friends don�t have this ability and so instead use many other ways to communicate their message to us and other cats. Now it would be impossible for us to be able to compile an A to Z of cat language, as it is far too complicated and subtle and besides they don�t use our alphabet. However with a little patience and observation we too can learn to understand and perhaps communicate with them.

Cat communication range from vocal sounds, smell, body posture and tactile contact and use all of these methods to communicate with each other. But they have also learnt that with a little patience on their part they can also teach us to understand their meanings and get us to do exactly what they want.

The sounds made by individual cats can vary, however it is possible to give each communication sound and behaviour a generalised meaning, giving us a basis of an understanding of their language.

There are seven basic cat sounds which have their own unique meaning and although the sounds may vary slightly from cat to cat and be affected by the situation, they do basically mean the same thing and easier for us to categorise them by there meaning rather than their sound. The seven basic sounds/meanings are:

Fear
Pain
Attention seeking
Anger
Follow me
Friendly
Attack

The fear sound is a throaty yowling and is designed to give the signal �I am afraid of you but don�t come any closer or I will attack you�. They may also spit and hiss, which looks very aggressive but combine this with their low body posture, indicates fear. The hissing is believed to resemble the sound a snake makes when it is about to attack and is a sound that most animals have an inbred fear of, even if they have never seen a snake in their lives.

Pain is a very distinctive scream sound, which once heard turns the blood cold. It is essentially a sound used by Kittens, designed to bring the mother cat running to their aid. However domesticated cats keep their kitten vocabulary to talk to us, because they see humans as their surrogate mothers. They therefore continue to use the kitten language and will scream when in pain in the hope that a human will come and rescue them.

The general meow of a cat is designed to attract attention from either the mother cat or from a human. Its message is �I want�. Owners of cats will begin to recognise their own particular cats meows and be able to associate them with particular things, like �I want food�, �I want to go out� etc.

Caterwauling is the name most people would associate with cats at mating time. However the sound is actually used in situations of aggression. The sound varies in volume and tone as the aggression turns into a fight and is displayed by both male and female cats. The reason it is associated with mating time is because the scent of the female cat will attract many male cats to the same area, this is something that they are not comfortable with and so the caterwauling is the sound of male cats warning each other off.

The pleasant little chirrup sound a cat will give us when they come in or go out is often thought to be a greeting. It certainly sounds very friendly and certainly gets our attention. However this sound is made by the mother cat calling her kittens to follow her. So in fact when the cat comes in, it is saying �follow me�, usually to the kitchen.

Purring is one of the most familiar sounds we associate with our cats and is often considered to be made by a cat that is contented. In deed this is one meaning of this sound, however the sound is also displayed between cats themselves. It is believed that the purring sound is a signal to say, �I am in a friendly mood and come in peace�, or �everything is ok�. It can often be heard between two cats greeting each other and by mother cats when her young are suckling, indicating to them that all is well. Strangely a cat in pain may also purr, this is not to say they are happy but is a way for them to comfort themselves.

The teeth chatter or clicking sound a cat makes is often displayed when a cat spies a bird or other prey. It is a rather unusual sound and serves no real purpose other than to indicate that it has seen something it would like to attack. The chattering jaw is the same action carried out when a cat bites it�s prey and so in a way the cat is imaging doing this when it makes this rather amusing sound.

A cat also use body language to communicate with each other and in fact is the main way cats in the wild talk to each other. By watching our cat�s body language we can learn to understand their mood and by aping these postures will be able to convey to the cat that we mean them no harm. This especially useful when homing a new cat.

Eye contact is seen by a cat as a threatening action and is why some cats react badly to people with glasses. So by not looking at them directly in the eye you are saying to them that you are not a threat. Also if you are trying to approach a nervous or frightened cat, try to lower your body down to the ground, this will also indicate to them that you are not a threat.

A cat�s tail is also a good indication of their mood. A happy cat that is coming to greet you will hold its tail straight up, perhaps with a slight curl at the top. Whereas as a tail that is flicking from side to side is the sign of an angry cat that may just be considering attack, so leave well alone.

By studying our cat�s subtle body movements and vocal sounds we begin to tap into the cats world. Perhaps enabling us to develop a greater understanding of why they behave in certain ways which we as humans find strange and unnecessary, which may ultimately lead to a much stronger bond between man and cat.

More cat health and cat care tips can be found at our site http://www.our-happy-cat.com
A feline friendly community full of helpful advice and fun things to do to make sure you have a happy cat and a happy you.

Copyright 2007 Kate Tilmouth

Thursday, October 11, 2007

Grow Your Own Catnip

By Blaine Lantz

Catnip may be a good way of getting a lazy, overweight cat to engage in some exercise. Reactions to Catnip vary from anxious nervousness to high excitement. Different cats react differently. When a cat detects the catnip's scent it triggers the pleasure center in the brain. This reaction is what triggers the catnip�s "high." Not all cats have the same response to this plant, however. "Felines usually have a Catnip gene," says Dr. Frank Costello, DVM, of the Cat Hospital in Scranton, Pennsylvania. "They either have the ability to recognize and react or they do not." If your kitten is ignoring Catnip, there's another reason: Catnip does not have an effect on very young kittens. "It usually takes 3 to 8 months of age before it starts to work" says Frank.

As a member of the Mint family, Catnip is a potent smelling herb. It has bunches of blue-purple or white flowers on top of small triangular leaves. Catnip is found native to the United States, grows up to three feet tall and is a perennial. It is easy and fun to grow plus it tastes great in tea.

To grow you must first germinate the seeds. This can be done by putting them in a sealed container with damp paper towels. Wait until the plant breaks out of the seeds and then transplant them outdoors in the early spring. Catnip can also be cloned (grown from cuttings) and transplanted directly into soil. After the catnip has bloomed, cut off three to seven inches of each stem. The plant will grow back next year if the roots remain in good condition.

To dry your cuttings snip the leaves off into a tray and get rid of the stems. Spread the leaves out and put them in a well circulated area. Stir up the leaves once a day for a few weeks. The leaves are ready when they become brittle. For another creative way to get your cats to exercise visit www.WallCats.com, www.KoolTanks.com.

As the founder of Lantz Enterprises Inc, Blaine Lantz spends his time supervising the manufacturer of unique pet supplies. They make wall mounted aquariums, in- wall aquariums ( http://www.bizarreaquariums.com, http://www.walltanks.com) and cat products like the unique wall mounted cat walk, cat trees and cat perches.

His passions include photography and cameras. As a part-time photographer, he manly does weddings and the occasional event ( http://www.isabella-rose.com).

Tuesday, October 9, 2007

How To Groom Your Cat And Why Grooming Is Important

By Kate Tilmouth

Cats are well equipped to groom themselves with their tongue, teeth, claws and paws all able to do an excellent wash and brush up. In fact the cats tongue is especially designed to brush through fur with its rough barbed covered surface, which is excellent at removing dirt and grit. However even the most agile and flexible cat cannot always reach every part of its body adequately enough to remove every last particle of dirt.

It is important that a cat�s fur be kept well groomed all year round; this is especially true at times when the coat is being shed. This normally happens in the spring when the thick winter coat is shed and is replaced with a new lighter summer coat. Although a cat will quite happily groom itself, problems arise when they digests large amounts of loose fur which become lodged in the cat�s throat, these are known as fur balls. Fur balls will normally be regurgitated by the cat, but in some extreme cases my become too large and have to be removed by a Vet. Too prevent this from happening regular grooming by the owner will remove the loose fur and prevent the cat from digesting too much.

Longhaired cats require much more frequent grooming by their owners, at least two or three times a week. The fur of a longhaired cat is very thick and has several layers, which is what it them that fluffy look. The cat although able to groom the upper layer easy cannot reach the much finer layers of fur nearest the skin. This is the fur that if left unattended will begin to mat together, causing painful clumps. These clumps or mats of fur get larger and larger if not dealt with promptly and begin to pull and tear the cat�s skin. When the fur is at this stage the only solution is to have the mats cut out by a professional cat groomer, who will shave the affected fur away using special grooming tools. To avoid this situation regular grooming by the owner will prevent these mats from forming.

There are many types of cat combs and brushes on the market especially designed for owners to painlessly and easily be able to groom their cats. Always make sure that the equipment is suited to the type of cats fur, as short haired and longhaired cats require different types of brush. Using the wrong one may cause pain and distress to your cat and not be able to adequately groom the fur.

The following steps will take you through the common process for grooming your cat:

1. Settle your cat down by gently stroking them and getting them in a relaxed frame of mind.
2. Gently part the fur and look for any injuries, lumps or parasites.
3. Check the feet and press the toes gently to see if there are any foreign bodies caught between the toes or in the fur.
4. Clip any long claws using special nail clippers. (Remember not to go near the pink quick of the nail)
5. Gently brush the cat�s fur in the opposite direction to its growth, making sure to get down into the fur closest to the skin.
6. Pay particular attention to the fur around the back legs especially in longhaired cats, as this is one of the areas most prone to matting.
7. Check inside the cat�s ears for any signs of wax of ear mites and clean with a small damp piece of cotton wool if necessary.
8. Wipe eyes with damp cotton wool if there are any signs of discharge.

The more often you groom your cat the more confident you will become and the more excepting your cat will be of the process.

It is generally not necessary to give a cat a bath. However if something gets on the fur that cannot be brushed out, like oil or paint then washing the cats fur is the only option. Remember most cats don�t like water and so bathing your cat may be quite a traumatic experience for you both. Try to keep the situation as calm as possible and always keep water away from the cats face. A cat should never be submerged in water, use jugs of warm water or a light flow from a shower head. Use only special cat shampoos, as it is important not to wash away oils from the cats fur that help to keep the coat in top condition.

More cat health and cat care tips can be found at our site http://www.our-happy-cat.com
A feline friendly community full of helpful advice and fun things to do to make sure you have a happy cat and a happy you.

Copyright 2007 Kate Tilmouth

Sunday, October 7, 2007

Pheromones - A Possible Solution To Altering Your Cat's Behavior

By Dorothy Santoro

Often a cat's behaviour can be altered due to stress. Cats are most happy when the least change is going on around them, they are happy with the way things are and prefer it if there are no changes to their living arrangements. Stress can cause a cat to become unsociable, nervous and in some cases ill.

Pheromones such as 'Feliway' can help your cat stay calm and in the long run will lead to a happier, more sociable cat. Cats will release their own pheromones through clawing and urinating to signal their displeasure. 'Feliway' or other man-made pheromones counteract this and release calming pheromones which your cat will react to in a positive fashion.

Man-made pheromones deliver chemical copies of the facial pheromones found in cats. The facial pheromones are normally used by a cat to familiarize with its surroundings. By rubbing against a surface or even a person's leg, the cat is able to familiarize the surface and will know from then on that they can be comfortable around it.

When the cat detects the presence of these particular pheromones they will react in a calmer manner. This emotional calming will eventually lead to a reduction in the cat's antisocial or stressed behaviour.

One of the best ways to calm your cat is by using an electrical diffuser which disperses pheromones throughout the household environment via means of evaporation. This can be especially helpful if your cat is losing its appetite and does not look comfortable in its home.

The best results from using man-made pheromones come in a variety of different situations, these include:

1. When you are introducing a new cat into the household, this can be a threatening time for your existing cat and pheromones will help to ease the worry and should help the two cats build a good relationship.

2. When the cat is being taken to the vet or moved around outside its home. This can be an extremely stressful time for the cat and using the pheromones will not only make the cat happier, it can reduce your anxiety when your cat stops howling at you!

3. When you move. If you spray pheromones around the new home the cat will instantly feel more at home and will feel as though it has already familiarized itself with the surrounding environment.

There are many other situations where pheromones are useful, all you need to know is that when you think your cat might be stressed, pheromones are the chemically proven answer!

For more information and resources for cats go to http://www.yourspecialpets.com/cats.

Friday, October 5, 2007

An Alternative To Cat Declawing

By Annie Clark

Are you thinking about declawing your cat? You fear that if you don't, your furniture and other household items may be destroyed. Or, you may be afraid that the cat will scratch small children in your home. But, you aren't sure about having your cat undergo a painful procedure.

Declawing of cats is actually outlawed in some countries as it is considered to be an inhumane practice. The cat will have to undergo anesthesia, and then be in pain for some time after the procedure. Using a laser to declaw is less painful to the cat, but there will still be pain involved. Cats can be perpetually puzzled that their claws are missing every time they try to scratch in the future. If all claws are removed, the cat won't be able to defend himself or herself if attacked and would have difficulty climbing a tree to escape. Even an indoor cat could accidentally escape outside and be injured by another animal.

There is now an alternative to declawing - plastic nail covers that can be used to cover the cat's claws. These nail caps do not hurt the cat and look attractive. You may choose to only put the nail covers on the front paws which leaves the back claws available if the cat goes outside. Or, you can cover all of the nails.

Application is simple. The cat's nails must be trimmed short. Then, you put glue inside the nail cap, and slide it on the cat's nail. After all of the nail caps have been applied, the cat does need to be held for a few minutes in order for the glue to dry.

Nail covers come in many colors including pink, blue, green, clear, and white. Sometimes there are special holiday colors such as for Christmas when you can order packs containing red and green nail covers that you can alternate on the cat's foot. You can experiment with many different looks for your cat. They also come in various sizes.

If you're not comfortable with the idea of declawing your cat, give the plastic nail covers a try. Your cat will look stylish and not have to undergo a painful procedure. Plus, you will reap the benefits of declawing like not having your house destroyed by sharp claws and no family members getting hurt.

Learn more about cat behavior, cat-related products and other cat topics at http://www.felineinfo.com/blog

Wednesday, October 3, 2007

Siamese Cats Origins And Siamese Cat Behaviors

By Jin Tuncit

Siamese cat origins

Despite various other theories about its origin, Siamese cats really did originate in Siam (now Thailand) many hundred years ago. Cats with similar pointed markings feature in the Cat Book Poems, a manuscript saved from Ayuda, the old capital of Siam, which was burned down in 1767. It is the best known of a number of manuscripts that provide a record of the native cats, dogs and birds of the region at that time.

The Siamese pattern was later recorded in Russia by the naturalist Simon Pallas, in 1793. However, the cats he encountered were of much darker colouring. This could be explained by the fact that the Siamese points darken in colder climates. It is not known whether the Russian cats were descended from original Siamese imports, or whether the Siamese gene mutation (now commonly known as the Himalayan gene) had occupied naturally in Russia.

Siamese cats were already in Britain before 1871, for in that year they featured at the first National Cat Show in London. There were many stories about their origin and at one time they were labeled as �an unnatural, nightmare kind of cat.� Nevertheless, their popularity grew and specimens were taken to America around 1890. The body shape of the Siamese has altered considerably over the years as breeders and judges select ever more extreme �Oriental� type. Breeders have developed a wide variety of coast colours and patterns. The Himalayan gene carried by the Siamese (and other pointed cats) causes dilution of any particular colour. Hence there is no black Siamese because the colour is diluted to a very dark brown, called Seal. Siamese have also given rise to the Oriental varieties which are, in effect, �non-pointed� Siamese

Siamese cat appearance

This is a short-haired cat of Oriental type with a long svelte body and an alert, intelligent expression. The head is long and wedge-shaped, neither rounded nor pointed, with a firm chin in line with the upper jaw. The ears are large, well pricked and wide at the base. The eye shape is oriental, slanting towards the nose and its deep blue in colour. The body is medium in size, long and svelte, with proportionately slim legs. The hind legs are slightly higher that the forelegs, the feet small and oval. The tail is long and tapering. The coat is very short and fine in texture, glossy and close-lying. The mask is completely connected to the ears by tracings. In all colours kittens may not show full masking, nor the adult colour on legs and tail

Siamese cat behavior

Siamese are extremely affectionate, devoted and loyal. They are highly intelligent, inquisitive, active and very vocal. They are also very demanding which make them unsuitable for some elderly people. They "meow" a lot in a loud low pitched voice. Some say that their voice sounds like the crying of a human baby. They also tend to get along well with other cats but they are usually dominant in their relationships with cats of other breeds

To view the Cutest and the most beautiful Siamese cat pictures, please visit my blog at:- http://cuteycats2u.blogspot.com/2007/09/siamese-cats-despite-various-other.html

Cuteycats2u also contains useful cat care and training advises, fun cat videos, cat pictures and cat stories. Have fun!!

Monday, October 1, 2007

Give Your Cat A Pill And Live To Tell The Tale

By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Dorothy_Santoro]Dorothy Santoro

This is a subject which has been the source of much humour - we've all seen the posters, read the stories or maybe even got the t-shirt, saying how if you need to give your cat a pill, you'd better stand by for a wrecked house and several scars!

I know the truth here all too well - one of my 2 cats was ok with pills, not terrific but ok. The other one though, he was a different story, and we used to have many a 'discussion' about him taking his pill!

I then decided to tap into the 'information highway' as the internet was first called, to see if there was a solution there. There was, it worked for me every time since, and I'm now about to tell you...

I call it the 'washing machine method' because if you imagine moving your washing machine around your kitchen, it's a case of a gentle push here, a slow nudge there.

When delivery men come with a new one though, they just plonk it down, give it a mighty shove and it goes where they decide it will go in about 5 seconds. It's this combination of technique and belief that you will tap into when it's next time for your cat to take a pill.

The technique is that used by vets. If a vet has to give a cat a pill, there is no asking the cat! There is no mollycoddling, the cat gets the pill 'inserted', and this is how you do it.

Firstly prepare the technique mentally. Know exactly what you will be doing, and how, because it will be done in 2 seconds. Don't try and prepare the cat, cats are way to smart for this and they will win.

If you hold the cat and grab its upper cheekbones from above using your thumb and finger of the same hand, you can then bring the cat's head to a vertical looking up position. In this position a cat has no power over its lower jaw, and it will hang open.

You then use your other hand, rest a finger on the bottom flat teeth, and simply open the mouth. Remember the cat cannot stop you doing this due to factual muscle location. Then you put the pill far enough inside the mouth to go past the tongue.

Shut the mouth and hold it shut, stroke the throat to encourage swallowing, and that it is!

This technique takes 2 seconds, no more.

When you approach it, you need to believe it will work - put off any negative thoughts - again the cat will pick up on it, and you will lose.

The technique isn't painful for the cat, it isn't even particularly uncomfortable as it involves no strain - it's over so quickly that the cat is usually left thinking 'something happened here, but I am not sure what'!

Discovering this tip was great for me, and for the cat, much less stress all round, so next time your cat needs a pill popping, remember the washing machine method and and you can live to tell the tale, too!

For more information and resources for cats, cat breeds or anything else related to your favorite pet, go to [http://www.yourspecialpets.com/cats]http://www.yourspecialpets.com/cats.

Saturday, September 29, 2007

Products For Your New Cat or Kitten

By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Terry_King]Terry King

So you�ve got a new cat or a kitten and you were wondering what you needed. The following is a list of the equipment required for looking after your new pussy.

Cat carrier: These are now usually made of plastic, with a vented door made from plastic, metal or wicker. Plastic carriers are easy to clean and come in different sizes. Cat carriers are a must for taking your cat from the breeder, or rescue centre to its new home or for trips to the vets.

Litter Tray: Even outdoor cats will use a litter tray when the weather is bad.

Food and Water Bowls: These should be easy to clean and preferably unbreakable. The best are made of light-weight metal or plastic.

Combs and Brushes: Exactly what you need will depend on whether your cat is shorthaired, longhaired or semi-longhaired.

Scratching Post: I think these are a must, especially if a cat is to spend most of its time indoors. If your new kitten is presented with a scratching post as soon as it arrives it will get used to the idea of clawing this rather than your best furniture. If you delay the kitten scratch your furniture and may be reluctant to use the scratch post later.

Toys: Kittens love toys especially ones impregnated with catnip. These will help keep the cat occupied and healthy.

Collar and disc: If your cat is going to go outside it must wear a collar and disc in case it gets lost. The collar should be partly elasticated to help prevent strangling if the cat or kitten gets caught somewhere. The disc should show your telephone number and address so you can be contacted.

Bed: These are not vital as most cats and kittens are happy to sleep anywhere. If you do want a bed for your cat, there are many designs to choose from, but don�t expect your cat to sleep in it all the time.

Food: Cats are carnivores and need a meat based diet.

Young kittens have small stomachs, but need a lot of protein and other nutrients to grow and develop. Because of this, a kitten has to be fed a concentrated diet, which usually means special kitten food.

If you attempt to feed home cooked foods to your cat check recipes carefully and research ingredients carefully to ensure your cat is getting the correct nutrients. Always seek advice from your veterinary.

When using commercial food whether wet or dry always use a quality brand, as a cheap cat food often contains too much cereal and not enough protein.

A kitten up to the age of six months will need for meals a day. From six to nine months three meals a day should be served. Two meals a day will be fine once the cat has reached nine months and becomes an adult.

It is best to provide weaned kittens and adult cats water to drink as they have no need for milk. If feeding dry food extra water should be made available. Do not give cows milk as this will often upset a cats stomach.

Terry King runs [http://www.pets2home.co.uk/]Parcel Pets, a leading UK [http://www.pets2home.co.uk/]pet supplies web site and has had pets all his life. He lives with his wife Louise, dog Sam, Cat Sabrina and 5 fish!

Thursday, September 27, 2007

Feline Constipation - Treatment Methods for Curing Feline Constipation

By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Oscar_Uzoma]Oscar Uzoma

Constipation is a malady that doesn�t discriminate. It cuts across all categories of living animals and man. As long as the creature eats and digests food, it is likely to someday, somehow develop constipation. Cats are part of the animals that can be plagued by constipation. Therefore, you can say that feline constipation is a relatively common thing. Feline constipation is restricted to just the older cats even though it is more rampant and widespread among them that in the younger kittens.

Cats generally have a predictable pattern of lifestyle. They use the litter box about twice a day as their bowel movements are about the same period too. If there�s a sudden change in this habit, then you could say that it is constipating.

The common symptoms associated with feline constipation include

Frequency to the litter box. A cat doesn�t just go to the litter box anyhow. So, when you notice it is doing that a lot without successfully passing out any stool, then you know it is suffering from constipation. If it does, it may just pass out some milky stool and in extreme cases, it might be mixed with blood.Loss of interest in food. A cat that is constipating may not have the desire to eat. If it does, it will take less than the normal quantity it consumes.Less active. Cats suffering from constipation tend to be lethargic and lonesome. They are usually less than their normal active self.

Therefore, when you notice these symptoms, don�t assume it is diarrhea because of the passing of mucus containing a tinge of blood.

Cats suffer from three types of bowel disorder:

Megacolon caused by the expanding or dilation of the colon as a result of the strain involved in trying to pass out feces. Most cats with Megacolon suffer consistently from constipation. But not all cats that suffer constipation have megacolons.

Constipation is a result of the cat not being able to pass out feces

Obstipation is the complete blockage of the colon resulting in little to no bowel movement

The major causes of feline constipation are dehydration, hygiene, diet, and lack of exercise. Cats tend to be choosy about their litter box. So, a dirty litter box can be repulsive to a cat and it would rather not �go� than use a dirty litter box. Also, feeding cats with foods rich in fat and salt makes them dehydrate.

To treat the cat requires some simple steps. Take the cat to the veterinarian so he can determine the cause of the constipation and administer adequate treatment. Avoid feeding the cat with dry foods instead. Include lots of water in their diet and you�ll have less incidence of feline constipation.

For More information on How to Cure feline Constipation fast, Visit Your One-stop resource to Constipation Remedies. http://www.Constipationremedies.blogspot.com

Tuesday, September 25, 2007

All Natural Cat Treat Recipes

By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=David_Gilmore]David Gilmore

Homes with cats in the United States outnumber homes with dogs by a good number. With cats, you can live in a small apartment and not have to worry about your pet not getting enough exercise. But you do have to worry about what you feed your kitty. These days, cat food and treats are filled with all sorts of fillers and junk that is just plain bad for your pet. One way you can cut down on what your cat eats is by making your own cat treats at home with this awesome cat treat recipe! This is about as easy a cat treat recipe as you�ll find anywhere and it is almost a guarantee that your tabby will be begging for more!

You�ll only need four main ingredients for this cat treat recipe. Start wit a can of fresh tuna, or, if you can get it, fresh tuna from your local fish market. Chop up a cup and a half of fresh fish, or simply use one can of minced tuna. Add a half cup of cooked turkey or chicken, also chopped very fine. Add in two thirds of a cup of dry cat food. Make sure that the dry cat food you use for these treats is wholesome and natural. Many popular brands of cat food contain chemicals and ingredients that aren�t good for your cat. Finally, you can add some grated cheese or grated veggies for extra fiber and taste. Combine all of these ingredients in a bowl and mix. Once the ingredients are properly mixed, use a spoonful and roll into balls about half the size of a golf ball. Place the balls on a cookie sheet and place in the fridge for 2 hours so the balls harden a little. Once the tuna balls are cooled, remove them from the fridge and roll them in breadcrumbs. Serve to your kitty when they do something good, but be prepared for a bit of a mess! This way, you can serve your cats 100 percent natural [http://thepettreatskinny.com/ ]cat treats and you don�t have to worry about preservatives getting into their system. Be aware though that these treats will go bad, so don�t make too big of a batch at once.

David Gilmore - Owner / Operator http://thepettreatskinny.com/