By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=David_W_Johnson]David W Johnson
Deciding to be a pet owner and caregiver is a big responsibility. Owning an indoor cat can bring years of enjoyable pleasure for you and your new companion friend. Although cats are seen as self-reliant, you as the owner will always have to be the diligent parent.
If you�ve never owned any pets before, you should get some pet education before bringing your new furry friend home.
Probably the best way to find out about caring for an indoor cat is to visit the homes of friends who have indoor cats. Your friends can be an excellent resource for what�s going to be required of you to care for a cat. Other resources are community cat clubs, veterinarians, animal shelters, books, tapes, videos, and the Internet.
Before you get your first cat, decide what your commitment to this relationship will be. How much devotion, cost, effort, and attention are you willing to provide to your new friend. Also consider what your personal preferences are for the new family addition. Are you looking for?
Kitten or Adult
Longhair or Shorthair
Male or Female
Breed (Persian, Burmese, etc)
Pedigree or Non-Pedigree
To many, a kitten is a cute, cuddly bundle of joy, just like a new born baby. But like a baby, you�ll need to watch over carefully to the health of the kitten as it grows to adulthood. An adult cat, on the other hand, is more capable of attending to its own personal care.
Hair
Cats shed hair, just like humans. Some breeds shed more hair than others. Cats are fastidious groomers. Be prepared and none too surprised when they vomit a hairball from time to time -- completely natural with little cause for alarm. It�s a good practice to routinely brush your cat to collect the loose hair.
Shorthair cats usually need less routine brushing than longhairs. If you brush your cat routinely, they can have less incidents of hairballs and upset digestion. Giving your cat a bath (cat formulated shampoo only) once in a great while is good also.
Gender
Cats are individuals. Both female and male cats can make wonderful companions. If the cat has been spayed or neutered, then the cat's gender doesn't play a huge role. The cat's own unique personality will determine how good of a pet it will make. Your personal preference may be to choose a cat whose personality is agreeable to yours.
Breed
Generally the cat's breed isn't a factor and your selection usually is a personal preference.
Pedigree
You may choose a pedigree cat if your intention is to invest, breed, or show. There are other reasons why someone would choose a pedigree over a non-pedigree, and that�s a personal choice. Expect to pay more for a pedigree primarily because its lineage can be traced and its pedigree is highly prized by others.
Non-pedigree cats are just as cute and cuddly as the pedigree. A lot less expensive too!
Summary
A cat is a wonderful addition to your family and will give you many years of enjoyable pleasure. [http://www.PetFoodStory.com]www.PetFoodStory.com
Veterinarian formulated holistic pet food products for cats and dogs.
Friday, August 31, 2007
Wednesday, August 29, 2007
What to Look For In a Qualified Holistic Practitioner For Your Cat?
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Albert_Tang]Albert Tang
Nowadays, more and more pet owners are turning to alternative pet treatments for their pets. They are looking for natural, safe, healthy treatment options that are free from the side effects often associated with conventional medications.
So if you are looking for a qualified holistic practitioner, before you make any decision, interview a few practitioners in your area.
Here's a practical shortlist you can ask them to assist you decide which one will best suit your cat's need:
1) Check out their qualifications in holistic medicine. You need to ask questions was it a short weekend course or a 100 hour continuing education course that required them to pass a practical test for certification.
2) The period of time they have been practicing holistic medicine. The longer the duration, it's also mean he or she is more experienced and able to deal with more varieties of problems.
3) What got them into this in the first place? If the practitioner is in for the money, you may decide against using his or her services. Go for someone who is really there for the animals rather than someone who is in for the money.
4) Which holistic veterinary medicine professional group do they belong to and how active they are?
5) Ask them whether they are willing to provide references and contact details of their clients.
6) Show a willingness to cooperate and discuss your cat's case with the vet who provides the primary traditional care.
7) Able to explain holistic concepts and discuss any possible side effects or safety issues associated with the holistic medicine or technique that is recommended for your cat.
Finding a qualified and good holistic practitioner can be quite a task but since you are paying for good service and the care of your cat, it is prudent to invest more time upfront when choosing a practitioner.
Albert recently developed a eCourse for looking after your cat's mental and physical needs. If you are interest in learning more about this free eCourse and taking good care of your cat, please go to http://catcentral.justastore.com or you can send an email to [mailto:catcentral@getresponse.com]catcentral@getresponse.com to request for your free eCourse.
Nowadays, more and more pet owners are turning to alternative pet treatments for their pets. They are looking for natural, safe, healthy treatment options that are free from the side effects often associated with conventional medications.
So if you are looking for a qualified holistic practitioner, before you make any decision, interview a few practitioners in your area.
Here's a practical shortlist you can ask them to assist you decide which one will best suit your cat's need:
1) Check out their qualifications in holistic medicine. You need to ask questions was it a short weekend course or a 100 hour continuing education course that required them to pass a practical test for certification.
2) The period of time they have been practicing holistic medicine. The longer the duration, it's also mean he or she is more experienced and able to deal with more varieties of problems.
3) What got them into this in the first place? If the practitioner is in for the money, you may decide against using his or her services. Go for someone who is really there for the animals rather than someone who is in for the money.
4) Which holistic veterinary medicine professional group do they belong to and how active they are?
5) Ask them whether they are willing to provide references and contact details of their clients.
6) Show a willingness to cooperate and discuss your cat's case with the vet who provides the primary traditional care.
7) Able to explain holistic concepts and discuss any possible side effects or safety issues associated with the holistic medicine or technique that is recommended for your cat.
Finding a qualified and good holistic practitioner can be quite a task but since you are paying for good service and the care of your cat, it is prudent to invest more time upfront when choosing a practitioner.
Albert recently developed a eCourse for looking after your cat's mental and physical needs. If you are interest in learning more about this free eCourse and taking good care of your cat, please go to http://catcentral.justastore.com or you can send an email to [mailto:catcentral@getresponse.com]catcentral@getresponse.com to request for your free eCourse.
Monday, August 27, 2007
Bathing Your Siamese
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Bonnie_Koenig]Bonnie Koenig
Siamese cats, like most cats are very clean creatures. There are times when they may need to be bathed. Even the most conscientious of owners may find fleas from time to time or perhaps your Siamese finds a way to explore under an oily car.
While Siamese are curious and love to be around humans, like many cats, they tend to dislike water. Some Siamese are very curious and don�t mind getting a bit wet, but this is an unusual cat. Even Siamese who like water, tend to have very different ideas about water if they think they are going to be dunked in it.
It wise to take precautions to protection oneself first. This means dressing appropriately. While many owners jump in the shower with their dog and bathe both themselves and the dog, this is not a safe idea for a cat owner. Wear a heavy long sleeved shirt and pants. Keep your feet covered as well. While gloves would be a great idea, it�s also important to be flexible enough to move quickly and dexterously while bathing your cat.
Have a place that�s comfortable for you to bathe your Siamese. While the bathtub is handy, consider whether you can lean over the tub for time it takes to lather the cat and rinse. If using a sink, consider how high the faucet reaches. The ideal place is a large kitchen sink that includes a sprayer nozzle. However, many kitchens do not have doors and it�s important to be able to confine your Siamese should they (or perhaps when they) get loose.
It�s easiest to bathe a Siamese if you have assistance. Even the most gentle-tempered Siamese is likely to fight a bath. Consider the person the cat is closest to and who can handle the cat best. This person should be the cat handler. The other person should lather the cat with the shampoo and do any rinsing.
After you�ve found the place to bathe your Siamese, it�s helpful to have a little water in the basin you are using. Bring your cat in the room and close the door. Dunk the cat as quickly as possible and then lather up the shampoo. Be careful of the cat�s face. Getting water (or worse, shampoo) in their face will terrify them and you�ll have a really frightened and angry cat on your hands! Follow the directions on the shampoo label. Some flea products require setting for a few minutes.
If your Siamese had a particular area that got dirty while they were investigating, concentrate on this area with the water and shampoo. Remember that if you are trying to do a deep cleaning, this can be uncomfortable for your cat. Be patient with your Siamese. They�re confident that whatever they got into will eventually come off, and they don�t care if that place is your expensive sofa.
After soaping the Siamese, rinse the cat off. If you have no sprayer available to rinse the cat, have the other person pour cups of water of the back of the cat (or the area that is dirty). Make sure you avoid getting water directly in their face. A bit might drip down from the head if you are washing around the ears, but do your best to keep it from being directed at the face. Wash all the shampoo off thoroughly, usually going through and rinsing twice.
Have heavy towels ready to wrap your Siamese in after the bath. Pat them dry with the towels as much as you can. If you have a nice space heater in the bathroom area, this can be a good place to leave the cat while you help brush them out. Blow dryers may be a great idea for dogs, but many Siamese dislike the sound. However you dry them off, be sure to get them fairly dry before you let them run around again. You don�t want your Siamese to get chilled. Siamese, like many cats, can be very prone to colds.
Once dry, consider that you�ve successfully bathed your Siamese. It probably didn�t go as easily as described here. Siamese can be very stubborn and few cats enjoy the bathing experience. If your Siamese is far too stressed or you had to abort the attempt, many veterinarians who specialize in cats will bathe a cat for an owner for a fee. Often at the veterinary clinic, they will give your Siamese a tranquilizer to calm them during the process. This may be the easiest way to get your cat cleaned if all else fails.
Bonnie Koenig lives with her three cats. She and her Siamese, Cheysuli, maintain their website [http://www.mysiamese.com]My Siamese
Siamese cats, like most cats are very clean creatures. There are times when they may need to be bathed. Even the most conscientious of owners may find fleas from time to time or perhaps your Siamese finds a way to explore under an oily car.
While Siamese are curious and love to be around humans, like many cats, they tend to dislike water. Some Siamese are very curious and don�t mind getting a bit wet, but this is an unusual cat. Even Siamese who like water, tend to have very different ideas about water if they think they are going to be dunked in it.
It wise to take precautions to protection oneself first. This means dressing appropriately. While many owners jump in the shower with their dog and bathe both themselves and the dog, this is not a safe idea for a cat owner. Wear a heavy long sleeved shirt and pants. Keep your feet covered as well. While gloves would be a great idea, it�s also important to be flexible enough to move quickly and dexterously while bathing your cat.
Have a place that�s comfortable for you to bathe your Siamese. While the bathtub is handy, consider whether you can lean over the tub for time it takes to lather the cat and rinse. If using a sink, consider how high the faucet reaches. The ideal place is a large kitchen sink that includes a sprayer nozzle. However, many kitchens do not have doors and it�s important to be able to confine your Siamese should they (or perhaps when they) get loose.
It�s easiest to bathe a Siamese if you have assistance. Even the most gentle-tempered Siamese is likely to fight a bath. Consider the person the cat is closest to and who can handle the cat best. This person should be the cat handler. The other person should lather the cat with the shampoo and do any rinsing.
After you�ve found the place to bathe your Siamese, it�s helpful to have a little water in the basin you are using. Bring your cat in the room and close the door. Dunk the cat as quickly as possible and then lather up the shampoo. Be careful of the cat�s face. Getting water (or worse, shampoo) in their face will terrify them and you�ll have a really frightened and angry cat on your hands! Follow the directions on the shampoo label. Some flea products require setting for a few minutes.
If your Siamese had a particular area that got dirty while they were investigating, concentrate on this area with the water and shampoo. Remember that if you are trying to do a deep cleaning, this can be uncomfortable for your cat. Be patient with your Siamese. They�re confident that whatever they got into will eventually come off, and they don�t care if that place is your expensive sofa.
After soaping the Siamese, rinse the cat off. If you have no sprayer available to rinse the cat, have the other person pour cups of water of the back of the cat (or the area that is dirty). Make sure you avoid getting water directly in their face. A bit might drip down from the head if you are washing around the ears, but do your best to keep it from being directed at the face. Wash all the shampoo off thoroughly, usually going through and rinsing twice.
Have heavy towels ready to wrap your Siamese in after the bath. Pat them dry with the towels as much as you can. If you have a nice space heater in the bathroom area, this can be a good place to leave the cat while you help brush them out. Blow dryers may be a great idea for dogs, but many Siamese dislike the sound. However you dry them off, be sure to get them fairly dry before you let them run around again. You don�t want your Siamese to get chilled. Siamese, like many cats, can be very prone to colds.
Once dry, consider that you�ve successfully bathed your Siamese. It probably didn�t go as easily as described here. Siamese can be very stubborn and few cats enjoy the bathing experience. If your Siamese is far too stressed or you had to abort the attempt, many veterinarians who specialize in cats will bathe a cat for an owner for a fee. Often at the veterinary clinic, they will give your Siamese a tranquilizer to calm them during the process. This may be the easiest way to get your cat cleaned if all else fails.
Bonnie Koenig lives with her three cats. She and her Siamese, Cheysuli, maintain their website [http://www.mysiamese.com]My Siamese
Saturday, August 25, 2007
Cat Training Basics
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Albert_Tang]Albert Tang
Cats can be trained, but not in the same way as dogs. In general, dogs respond to commands to please their owners whereas cats perform to please themselves. Cats only do what you want them to do if there are some reward in store for them. Using this little piece of information, you can select positive training methods combine with lots of love and treats to achieve maximum results.
With plenty of patience, persistence and positive reinforcement, cats can also be taught to perform tricks and entertain audiences. However that's not most cat owners really want. Instead, what cat owners really want is for their cats to stay off tabletops and refrain from climbing the draperies or clawing the furniture.
Here are pointers when training your cat:
Consistency and timing is the key to training your cat. Correct your cat's mistakes immediately if it does anything wrong. Your correction must be at that exact moment when you see the mistake being made, not minutes or hours later but immediately. If you don't correct immediately, later on if you come home, and find that while you were away, your cat has clawed and tarnished your furniture and then you start screaming at it, you will only succeed in making your cat fearful of you. Your cat does not have the ability to connect the corrective action to the misdeed hours after it happened.
If you are able to anticipate your cat's misbehavior, initiate your corrective action at the moment before your cat misbehaves. The end results will be much better.
Use a stern tone to reprimand. Your voice is your most accessible disciplinary tool. Use your voice in a stern but not overly forceful tone. At the same time, you can clap your hands sharply. Use a negative word such as "NO" or "BAD" and consistently use that word in a firm and stern tone whenever you correct your cat's behavior. In time to come, your cat will come to acknowledge it with bad behavior.
Avoid linking negative remarks with your cat's name. Refrain from using your cat's name in any reprimand. For example, do not say "No, Baby" or "Bad girl, Baby". By refraining from such usage, your cat will only develop positive and pleasant associations when its name is being called.
Whatever training methods and tools you use, train your cat with love, not fear, so that your cat will learn to trust you, not fear you. Never ever strike your cat with your hand or any object. Be swift, stern and immediate when a correction is necessary and remember to communicate your displeasure clearly. But be even more generous with your praise and pats when your cat behaves appropriately.
Albert recently developed a eCourse for looking after your cat's mental and physical needs. If you are interest in learning more about this free eCourse and taking good care of your cat, please go to http://catcentral.justastore.com or you can send an email to [mailto:catcentral@getresponse.com]catcentral@getresponse.com to request for your free eCourse.
Cats can be trained, but not in the same way as dogs. In general, dogs respond to commands to please their owners whereas cats perform to please themselves. Cats only do what you want them to do if there are some reward in store for them. Using this little piece of information, you can select positive training methods combine with lots of love and treats to achieve maximum results.
With plenty of patience, persistence and positive reinforcement, cats can also be taught to perform tricks and entertain audiences. However that's not most cat owners really want. Instead, what cat owners really want is for their cats to stay off tabletops and refrain from climbing the draperies or clawing the furniture.
Here are pointers when training your cat:
Consistency and timing is the key to training your cat. Correct your cat's mistakes immediately if it does anything wrong. Your correction must be at that exact moment when you see the mistake being made, not minutes or hours later but immediately. If you don't correct immediately, later on if you come home, and find that while you were away, your cat has clawed and tarnished your furniture and then you start screaming at it, you will only succeed in making your cat fearful of you. Your cat does not have the ability to connect the corrective action to the misdeed hours after it happened.
If you are able to anticipate your cat's misbehavior, initiate your corrective action at the moment before your cat misbehaves. The end results will be much better.
Use a stern tone to reprimand. Your voice is your most accessible disciplinary tool. Use your voice in a stern but not overly forceful tone. At the same time, you can clap your hands sharply. Use a negative word such as "NO" or "BAD" and consistently use that word in a firm and stern tone whenever you correct your cat's behavior. In time to come, your cat will come to acknowledge it with bad behavior.
Avoid linking negative remarks with your cat's name. Refrain from using your cat's name in any reprimand. For example, do not say "No, Baby" or "Bad girl, Baby". By refraining from such usage, your cat will only develop positive and pleasant associations when its name is being called.
Whatever training methods and tools you use, train your cat with love, not fear, so that your cat will learn to trust you, not fear you. Never ever strike your cat with your hand or any object. Be swift, stern and immediate when a correction is necessary and remember to communicate your displeasure clearly. But be even more generous with your praise and pats when your cat behaves appropriately.
Albert recently developed a eCourse for looking after your cat's mental and physical needs. If you are interest in learning more about this free eCourse and taking good care of your cat, please go to http://catcentral.justastore.com or you can send an email to [mailto:catcentral@getresponse.com]catcentral@getresponse.com to request for your free eCourse.
Thursday, August 23, 2007
Treatment Options for Cat Constipation
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Kathy_Gupton]Kathy Gupton
I had never heard of cat constipation until one of our cats had problems with it over a year ago. In fact, I took him to the doctor thinking he was having problems urinating because he would go in and out of the litter box all day long without any results. What I learned when I too him to the veterinarian is that cat constipation is not all that rare and that is often "misdiagnosed" by cat owners because it isn't talked about as much as urinary problems.
While any age cat can have constipation problems, must of the cases reported are for cats that are 8 years old or older (our cat was 10). Cats will typically have one to two bowel movement everyday, although some might have more or less. If a cat goes for three or more days with no bowel movement, it is likely an indication that there is a problem. By not treating cat constipation, you could seriously harm your pet. Cat constipation can be treated both medically and naturally. We chose the natural route, which worked for our cat.
Fortunately, our cat liked canned pumpkin, which is high in fiber, so we mixed it with his food. We also cut out dry cat food for awhile since wet cat food has more water in it. Water bowls were in every room of our house to encourage him to drink more water and we found that in front of the bay window was his favorite watering hole. We also read up on herbal remedies for cat constipation, but did not have to try them since he got better.
If your pet is experiencing cat constipation, you need to act now to help them get better. Consult with your veterinarian for ideas on how you can help alleviate the constipation. There are plenty of natural remedies for cat constipation that you can try to find the one that works for him.
For information on over 70 natural remedies for constipation, visit [http://www.stopconstipation.info/]http://www.stopconstipation.info/.
Get your copy of [http://www.stopconstipation.info/]77 ways to alleviate constipation online now.
I had never heard of cat constipation until one of our cats had problems with it over a year ago. In fact, I took him to the doctor thinking he was having problems urinating because he would go in and out of the litter box all day long without any results. What I learned when I too him to the veterinarian is that cat constipation is not all that rare and that is often "misdiagnosed" by cat owners because it isn't talked about as much as urinary problems.
While any age cat can have constipation problems, must of the cases reported are for cats that are 8 years old or older (our cat was 10). Cats will typically have one to two bowel movement everyday, although some might have more or less. If a cat goes for three or more days with no bowel movement, it is likely an indication that there is a problem. By not treating cat constipation, you could seriously harm your pet. Cat constipation can be treated both medically and naturally. We chose the natural route, which worked for our cat.
Fortunately, our cat liked canned pumpkin, which is high in fiber, so we mixed it with his food. We also cut out dry cat food for awhile since wet cat food has more water in it. Water bowls were in every room of our house to encourage him to drink more water and we found that in front of the bay window was his favorite watering hole. We also read up on herbal remedies for cat constipation, but did not have to try them since he got better.
If your pet is experiencing cat constipation, you need to act now to help them get better. Consult with your veterinarian for ideas on how you can help alleviate the constipation. There are plenty of natural remedies for cat constipation that you can try to find the one that works for him.
For information on over 70 natural remedies for constipation, visit [http://www.stopconstipation.info/]http://www.stopconstipation.info/.
Get your copy of [http://www.stopconstipation.info/]77 ways to alleviate constipation online now.
Tuesday, August 21, 2007
Tips For Effectively Training Your Pet Cat
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Jon_Arnold]Jon Arnold
Cats are very rewarding pets. They are intelligent, relatively easy to care for and can be trained if you know how to do it correctly. The first thing to teach a cat is its name. You will want it to come to you when you call its name, so repeat this exercise a few times.
Cats have needs, such as food, water, somewhere to strop their claws and toys or items to capture their interest. If you fail to provide an adequate scratching post, for example, a cat will use your couch or stereo speakers to strop its claws. Your pet cat is not doing this "to be naughty" but it does not have an alternative. If the cat begins to scratch the furniture, you can remove the animal and place it at the scratching post. You might need to do this a few times, but it will eventually realize what the scratching post is for.
Cats naturally chew and play with things. Providing your pet cat with an assortment of interesting cat toys means he or she is far less likely to chew up your slippers or cushions instead.
It is always a bad idea to hit a cat. Hitting an animal just makes it afraid of you and it does not understand the relationship of being hit with behaving in an inappropriate way. Often a firm "no" or clapping your hands will let your pet cat know you disapprove of whatever it is doing wrong. It's not that the cat understands your spoken word, but the harsh sound and tone of your voice is enough to make it realize something is wrong. Some people use a water sprayer to spray the cat's face if it does something wrong. This is also perfectly acceptable and can be used if you are training your pet cat. Some cats like being sprayed (not many though!) so, for them, a loud noise such as a clap can be used instead.
If your kitty does something good, it is fine to reward it with a cat treat or a few minutes of playtime between you both. It will then associate its good behavior with receiving a treat or some kind of bonus.
Cats are naturally nocturnal but can be trained to sleep at night. A cat pouncing on you at five in the morning expecting food can be inconvenient! If you get up and feed your pet cat, you are encouraging this behavior. Having a set feeding time and sticking to it will let the cat know it is pointless to wake you in the middle of the night because it is not going to get fed. Make sure you play with your pet cat in the daytime and provide it with toys so it is tired enough to want to sleep at night.
Different breeds need slightly different types of training. Some breeds can be quiet and shy and others might be more rambunctious. The important thing is to get to know your particular pet cat and see how it responds best to the training. The Japanese Bobtail, for example, is highly strung and resilient. This means it will keep stropping the couch even though you are shouting at it to stop because it is less intimidated by you than, for example, a Persian or Ragdoll cat. You can still train it � just alter your approach slightly.
Cat training is mostly about using common sense and making sure your pet cat has everything it needs for a happy life. Correct training and a lot of love and care will make sure the two of you have a happy relationship and a lot of fun together!
For more insights and additional information on Pet Cat Training please visit our web site at http://www.cat-pet-info.com
Cats are very rewarding pets. They are intelligent, relatively easy to care for and can be trained if you know how to do it correctly. The first thing to teach a cat is its name. You will want it to come to you when you call its name, so repeat this exercise a few times.
Cats have needs, such as food, water, somewhere to strop their claws and toys or items to capture their interest. If you fail to provide an adequate scratching post, for example, a cat will use your couch or stereo speakers to strop its claws. Your pet cat is not doing this "to be naughty" but it does not have an alternative. If the cat begins to scratch the furniture, you can remove the animal and place it at the scratching post. You might need to do this a few times, but it will eventually realize what the scratching post is for.
Cats naturally chew and play with things. Providing your pet cat with an assortment of interesting cat toys means he or she is far less likely to chew up your slippers or cushions instead.
It is always a bad idea to hit a cat. Hitting an animal just makes it afraid of you and it does not understand the relationship of being hit with behaving in an inappropriate way. Often a firm "no" or clapping your hands will let your pet cat know you disapprove of whatever it is doing wrong. It's not that the cat understands your spoken word, but the harsh sound and tone of your voice is enough to make it realize something is wrong. Some people use a water sprayer to spray the cat's face if it does something wrong. This is also perfectly acceptable and can be used if you are training your pet cat. Some cats like being sprayed (not many though!) so, for them, a loud noise such as a clap can be used instead.
If your kitty does something good, it is fine to reward it with a cat treat or a few minutes of playtime between you both. It will then associate its good behavior with receiving a treat or some kind of bonus.
Cats are naturally nocturnal but can be trained to sleep at night. A cat pouncing on you at five in the morning expecting food can be inconvenient! If you get up and feed your pet cat, you are encouraging this behavior. Having a set feeding time and sticking to it will let the cat know it is pointless to wake you in the middle of the night because it is not going to get fed. Make sure you play with your pet cat in the daytime and provide it with toys so it is tired enough to want to sleep at night.
Different breeds need slightly different types of training. Some breeds can be quiet and shy and others might be more rambunctious. The important thing is to get to know your particular pet cat and see how it responds best to the training. The Japanese Bobtail, for example, is highly strung and resilient. This means it will keep stropping the couch even though you are shouting at it to stop because it is less intimidated by you than, for example, a Persian or Ragdoll cat. You can still train it � just alter your approach slightly.
Cat training is mostly about using common sense and making sure your pet cat has everything it needs for a happy life. Correct training and a lot of love and care will make sure the two of you have a happy relationship and a lot of fun together!
For more insights and additional information on Pet Cat Training please visit our web site at http://www.cat-pet-info.com
Sunday, August 19, 2007
Cat Weight Management - Health Isues
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Ron_King]Ron King
Obesity is the most common health problem for cats. A cat is considered obese if it weighs 20% more than its optimal weight and if the extra weight is a result of the accumulation of fat. If a cat is anywhere from 1 to 19% heavier than its ideal body weight, then it is considered overweight and not obese. In order for a cat to maintain good health and have a long and happy life, the cat must maintain a healthy weight.
Determining If A Cat Is Overweight Or Obese
There is no magical body weight that is appropriate for all cats. The breed, general size, and age of the cat all have a factor in how much it should weigh. To determine the optimal weight of a specific cat, it is best to consult a veterinarian. However typically, a cat whose ribs are difficult to feel because they are covered with a layer of fat is overweight or obese, depending on how thick the layer of fat is.
A cat is also considered to be obese if it has a moderate or thick layer of fat that covers all of its bony areas. Some obese cats even develop a bulge under the abdomen, which is sometimes referred to as a "skirt." If the cat doesn't have a noticeable waist and if the back appears broad when viewed from above, the cat is obese.
How Obesity Affects
When a cat is either obese or overweight, it runs the risk of developing a variety of health disorders such as aggravation of osteoarthritis, decreased stamina, diabetes mellitus, Hepatic lipidosis -- which is fat deposited in the liver, joint stress, lower urinary tract disease, and non-allergic skin diseases.
An obese or overweight cat might also have breathing problems, develop a decrease in immune function, and even have difficulty giving birth.
Pre determiners for Obesity
Some cats are more likely to become overweight or obese than others. Typically, however, cats are just like humans. If a cat eats more calories than it uses, it will gain weight. The excess energy it gains from the calories becomes stored as fat.
Purebred cats, though, are less likely to become obese than mixed breeds. In addition, cats that are neutered have a tendency to gain weight more easily than those who are not, probably in part due to the fact that non-neutered cats have the disposition to roam in search of a mate. In addition, the metabolic rate of a neutered cat decreases by about 20%. Therefore, a neutered cat needs less food in order to maintain its ideal body weight.
Cats under two years of age are less likely to be overweight or obese than cats that are between the ages of two and ten. This is because cats between these ages need less energy. On the other hand, geriatric cats, which are older than ten, have a tendency to be underweight. In addition, certain medications can make a cat more likely to gain weight, as some medications will cause an increase in appetite and other medications cause a decrease in metabolic rate. Some medications that tend to lead to weight gain in cats are cortisosteroids, cyperoheptidine, and amytripyline.
Treating Obesity In The Cat
It is not healthy for an overweight or obese cat to lose weight too quickly. In fact, rapid weight loss increases a cat's likelihood of developing hepatic lipidosis, which is a fatal liver disease that causes fat to be deposited in the liver. Instead, an overweight or obese cat should lose weight steadily and gradually. In fact, it can take up to a year for a extremely overweight cat to reach its ideal body weight in a healthy manner.
If you are trying to help your cat lose weight, it's best to consult a veterinarian who can help you create a healthy eating plan. The veterinarian will ensure that your cat is still getting enough protein. Since cats are carnivores, it could be lethal to your cat to cut out meat. They need a lot of protein and not very many carbohydrates. If you feed your cat a similar diet, your cat will be able to lose weight without losing lean muscle mass.
To help an overweight or obese cat lose weight, it should also be encouraged to get plenty of exercise. This is particularly true for older cats with slower metabolisms, neutered cats, indoor cats with restricted activity, and cats on medication that affects weight. Pet owners can encourage exercise by playing with the cat frequently. For more direct exercise, a cat harness can be purchased to walk the cat around the house or up and down stairs. Feeding bowls can even be moved to areas that require more walking and, of course, cut down on the portions of food an overweight cat receives.
Maintaining Weight
In order to keep your cat healthy and at an ideal weight, you might want to purchase special "light" or low calorie food. This food will still taste good and keep your cat happy, but will also help to maintain lower weight as it is specially formulated for cats who have slower metabolism or are less active.
For free ezines, ecourses, and ebooks click [http://www.777-now.com]Free Info Products Click for Ron King's [http://www.ronxking.com/Articles.html]Articles For Authors OR [http://www.new-cat.com]Cat Information
Copyright 2007 Win-Win Marketing. This article may be reprinted if the resource box is left intact and the links live.
Obesity is the most common health problem for cats. A cat is considered obese if it weighs 20% more than its optimal weight and if the extra weight is a result of the accumulation of fat. If a cat is anywhere from 1 to 19% heavier than its ideal body weight, then it is considered overweight and not obese. In order for a cat to maintain good health and have a long and happy life, the cat must maintain a healthy weight.
Determining If A Cat Is Overweight Or Obese
There is no magical body weight that is appropriate for all cats. The breed, general size, and age of the cat all have a factor in how much it should weigh. To determine the optimal weight of a specific cat, it is best to consult a veterinarian. However typically, a cat whose ribs are difficult to feel because they are covered with a layer of fat is overweight or obese, depending on how thick the layer of fat is.
A cat is also considered to be obese if it has a moderate or thick layer of fat that covers all of its bony areas. Some obese cats even develop a bulge under the abdomen, which is sometimes referred to as a "skirt." If the cat doesn't have a noticeable waist and if the back appears broad when viewed from above, the cat is obese.
How Obesity Affects
When a cat is either obese or overweight, it runs the risk of developing a variety of health disorders such as aggravation of osteoarthritis, decreased stamina, diabetes mellitus, Hepatic lipidosis -- which is fat deposited in the liver, joint stress, lower urinary tract disease, and non-allergic skin diseases.
An obese or overweight cat might also have breathing problems, develop a decrease in immune function, and even have difficulty giving birth.
Pre determiners for Obesity
Some cats are more likely to become overweight or obese than others. Typically, however, cats are just like humans. If a cat eats more calories than it uses, it will gain weight. The excess energy it gains from the calories becomes stored as fat.
Purebred cats, though, are less likely to become obese than mixed breeds. In addition, cats that are neutered have a tendency to gain weight more easily than those who are not, probably in part due to the fact that non-neutered cats have the disposition to roam in search of a mate. In addition, the metabolic rate of a neutered cat decreases by about 20%. Therefore, a neutered cat needs less food in order to maintain its ideal body weight.
Cats under two years of age are less likely to be overweight or obese than cats that are between the ages of two and ten. This is because cats between these ages need less energy. On the other hand, geriatric cats, which are older than ten, have a tendency to be underweight. In addition, certain medications can make a cat more likely to gain weight, as some medications will cause an increase in appetite and other medications cause a decrease in metabolic rate. Some medications that tend to lead to weight gain in cats are cortisosteroids, cyperoheptidine, and amytripyline.
Treating Obesity In The Cat
It is not healthy for an overweight or obese cat to lose weight too quickly. In fact, rapid weight loss increases a cat's likelihood of developing hepatic lipidosis, which is a fatal liver disease that causes fat to be deposited in the liver. Instead, an overweight or obese cat should lose weight steadily and gradually. In fact, it can take up to a year for a extremely overweight cat to reach its ideal body weight in a healthy manner.
If you are trying to help your cat lose weight, it's best to consult a veterinarian who can help you create a healthy eating plan. The veterinarian will ensure that your cat is still getting enough protein. Since cats are carnivores, it could be lethal to your cat to cut out meat. They need a lot of protein and not very many carbohydrates. If you feed your cat a similar diet, your cat will be able to lose weight without losing lean muscle mass.
To help an overweight or obese cat lose weight, it should also be encouraged to get plenty of exercise. This is particularly true for older cats with slower metabolisms, neutered cats, indoor cats with restricted activity, and cats on medication that affects weight. Pet owners can encourage exercise by playing with the cat frequently. For more direct exercise, a cat harness can be purchased to walk the cat around the house or up and down stairs. Feeding bowls can even be moved to areas that require more walking and, of course, cut down on the portions of food an overweight cat receives.
Maintaining Weight
In order to keep your cat healthy and at an ideal weight, you might want to purchase special "light" or low calorie food. This food will still taste good and keep your cat happy, but will also help to maintain lower weight as it is specially formulated for cats who have slower metabolism or are less active.
For free ezines, ecourses, and ebooks click [http://www.777-now.com]Free Info Products Click for Ron King's [http://www.ronxking.com/Articles.html]Articles For Authors OR [http://www.new-cat.com]Cat Information
Copyright 2007 Win-Win Marketing. This article may be reprinted if the resource box is left intact and the links live.
Friday, August 17, 2007
Ear Mites Treatment - The Right Way
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Ron_King]Ron King
A common parasite that affects cats are ear mites, also known as Otodectes cynotis. These are small, crab-like creatures that infect the ears of animals, namely cats who spend time outdoors. Ear mites can be uncomfortable and itchy, but since they are easy to see, are easily diagnosed. If your cat has ear mites, it will look like there is oily black dirt in his ear. The mites feed on tissue and debris and live on the surface of the ear canal.
If you notice your cat scratching their ears or shaking their head and see dirty ears, it is likely that you cat is suffering from ear mites. It is important to treat your cat for these parasites. They are very contagious among cats and if you have multiple cats, it can spread quickly. If one of your cats gets ear mites, meticulously check all of your cats for this problem. Also, ear mites can be passed to and from other species including dogs. Ear mites can also affect humans, so treatment is imperative.
Ear mites can cause inflammation in the ears. If they are left untreated, these pesky parasites can lead to bacterial and yeast infections and can rupture the eardrum. Often, ruptured ear drums in cats can lead to seizures and eventually deafness. If you suspect that your cat has ear mites, take your cat to the vet. There are treatments that can help your cat get rid of the ear mites.
In order to prevent ear mites, you can keep your cat indoors and use regular flea treatment. Your vet can prescribe a number of different flea prevention methods. Most of them are applied monthly and are successful in preventing mites, as well as killing fleas and their eggs.
When you take your cat to the vet for ear mites, there is a kind of prescription ear drop that can be used to kill the ear mites. This is typically applied to your cat's ears two to three times a day for several days. If you've never treated ear mites before, it would be good to have a vet demonstrate how it is done by treating the cat the first time. Then you can do the last few applications at home.
The prescription ear drop will kill the ear mites and will also defend against a second outbreak. If the cat already has an infection caused by the mites, an injections can also be given by the vet.
Ivermectin is another treatment for ear mites in cats. This is a rather new way to treat ear mites. The FDA, however, does not approve this treatment for treating ear mites. Many vets find Ivermectin to be very effective for treating ear mites but should tell you that it is not officially approved for this use. This medication is the same medicine used to treat heartworms in dogs.
There is a treatment that can be done at home if you are extremely careful with your cat's ears. This treatment should not be used though if the ear mite outbreak has produced an ear infection. If your cat has an ear infection, he or she will usually have a strong odor in the ears. For treatments at home, use a small amount of baby oil or mineral oil to clean out the cat's ears. Put a small amount of the oil in an eyedropper and drop into the cat's ears. Next grasp the base of the ear between your thumb and finger and rub together for a about 5 seconds. Then take a clean tissue and gently wipe out the cat's ear out. Do not try to stick your finger too far down the ear canal. This treatment should be continued twice a day until the cat's ears are clear of the black mite.
When treating your cat for ear mites, it is very important to seek the advice of your vet before beginning any treatment. Most of the time, your vet will want to examine your cat before proceeding with any course of treatment. A thorough exam can rule out more serious problems like ear infections that should be treated differently than ear mites. Often, your vet will ask that you bring your cat back to the office for another exam after the treatment is complete. This is to make sure that all of the ear mites are gone and reduces the chances of re-infection.
For free ezines, ecourses, and ebooks click [http://www.777-now.com]Free Info Products
Click for Ron King's [http://www.ronxking.com/Articles.html]Articles For Authors OR [http://www.new-cat.com]Cat Information
Copyright 2007 Win-Win Marketing. This article may be reprinted if the resource box is left intact and the links live.
A common parasite that affects cats are ear mites, also known as Otodectes cynotis. These are small, crab-like creatures that infect the ears of animals, namely cats who spend time outdoors. Ear mites can be uncomfortable and itchy, but since they are easy to see, are easily diagnosed. If your cat has ear mites, it will look like there is oily black dirt in his ear. The mites feed on tissue and debris and live on the surface of the ear canal.
If you notice your cat scratching their ears or shaking their head and see dirty ears, it is likely that you cat is suffering from ear mites. It is important to treat your cat for these parasites. They are very contagious among cats and if you have multiple cats, it can spread quickly. If one of your cats gets ear mites, meticulously check all of your cats for this problem. Also, ear mites can be passed to and from other species including dogs. Ear mites can also affect humans, so treatment is imperative.
Ear mites can cause inflammation in the ears. If they are left untreated, these pesky parasites can lead to bacterial and yeast infections and can rupture the eardrum. Often, ruptured ear drums in cats can lead to seizures and eventually deafness. If you suspect that your cat has ear mites, take your cat to the vet. There are treatments that can help your cat get rid of the ear mites.
In order to prevent ear mites, you can keep your cat indoors and use regular flea treatment. Your vet can prescribe a number of different flea prevention methods. Most of them are applied monthly and are successful in preventing mites, as well as killing fleas and their eggs.
When you take your cat to the vet for ear mites, there is a kind of prescription ear drop that can be used to kill the ear mites. This is typically applied to your cat's ears two to three times a day for several days. If you've never treated ear mites before, it would be good to have a vet demonstrate how it is done by treating the cat the first time. Then you can do the last few applications at home.
The prescription ear drop will kill the ear mites and will also defend against a second outbreak. If the cat already has an infection caused by the mites, an injections can also be given by the vet.
Ivermectin is another treatment for ear mites in cats. This is a rather new way to treat ear mites. The FDA, however, does not approve this treatment for treating ear mites. Many vets find Ivermectin to be very effective for treating ear mites but should tell you that it is not officially approved for this use. This medication is the same medicine used to treat heartworms in dogs.
There is a treatment that can be done at home if you are extremely careful with your cat's ears. This treatment should not be used though if the ear mite outbreak has produced an ear infection. If your cat has an ear infection, he or she will usually have a strong odor in the ears. For treatments at home, use a small amount of baby oil or mineral oil to clean out the cat's ears. Put a small amount of the oil in an eyedropper and drop into the cat's ears. Next grasp the base of the ear between your thumb and finger and rub together for a about 5 seconds. Then take a clean tissue and gently wipe out the cat's ear out. Do not try to stick your finger too far down the ear canal. This treatment should be continued twice a day until the cat's ears are clear of the black mite.
When treating your cat for ear mites, it is very important to seek the advice of your vet before beginning any treatment. Most of the time, your vet will want to examine your cat before proceeding with any course of treatment. A thorough exam can rule out more serious problems like ear infections that should be treated differently than ear mites. Often, your vet will ask that you bring your cat back to the office for another exam after the treatment is complete. This is to make sure that all of the ear mites are gone and reduces the chances of re-infection.
For free ezines, ecourses, and ebooks click [http://www.777-now.com]Free Info Products
Click for Ron King's [http://www.ronxking.com/Articles.html]Articles For Authors OR [http://www.new-cat.com]Cat Information
Copyright 2007 Win-Win Marketing. This article may be reprinted if the resource box is left intact and the links live.
Wednesday, August 15, 2007
Behavioural Problems in Pet Cats and the Need for Environmental Enrichment
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Sarah_Fields]Sarah Fields
Environmental enrichment is a phrase many people are familiar with, but usually think of it as something only relevant to captive animals, such as those in zoos, not our pets. The actual meaning of the phrase is to provide an environment that the animal can interact with to indulge and satisfy its natural behaviours.
So, do our pet cats need environmental enrichment? Are our moggies basic instincts left unchallenged? Do we need to change the way we see our cat's role in our homes? The answer would seem to be yes. More and more owners, particularly of indoor cats (1), complain of problems, such as excessive spraying, aggression and destructive behaviour, so it would appear that although our cats seem to adapt to our lifestyles, modern living doesn't provide them with enough opportunity to indulge their natural instincts. Most cat's in the UK have access to the outdoors which does allow them greater choice and the ability to indulge natural behaviours and wants, such as hunting, playing, climbing, and scratching. However, it depends on the quality of the outdoors environment as to whether a cat will be able to fulfil all his natural needs. Many modern gardens provides little stimulation and sometimes other dominant cats in the area can mean your cat chooses not to go out, so improving your cat's life in your home to compensate can minimise many of the owner's commonly concerns.
Top Ten List for Preventing Behavioural Problems In Cats
Make Food A Challenge - The job is far easier achieved with dry kibble but with a bit of ingenuity any food can be used. Treat balls that dispense dry food in small quantities when batted and rolled can be used indoors, or for outdoor use the bottoms of cardboard egg cartons can be overturned and used to hide tasty morsels of chicken around the garden. Small boxes - the size that earrings, etc. come in - can be bought cheaply from craft shops and can be used to hide part of your cat's daily food ration around the house and help to engage his grey matter by working out how to remove the box lid. Toilet roll inners with one end pressed flat and taped closed with a couple of pieces of food dropped in make an interesting challenge for cat's who love to retrieve a reward and helps to improve dexterity.
Keep particular foods as treats, such as fresh fish and only give them once a week to maintain their rarity value and increase your cat's enjoyment of them. (2)
Don't provide water next to food - it's more natural for a cat to find food and water in separate locations, so place the water bowl in a different room. Use filtered water for those sensitive to the taste of chlorine or a pet fountain or a small indoor water feature in another room are great favourites with many cats.
Have more than one and spend time with them - If you have a single cat consider another to keep him company. Adult cats can sometimes be hard to integrate but even the grouchiest of single cats will generally tolerate kittens and younger cats under the age of six months very well. cats can sometimes be difficult to integrate consider a kitten as even the grouchiest of cats will generally tolerate a kitten or young cat under six months of age.
Grass - Grass can be bought and grown indoors and helps prevent cats chewing houseplants which can be toxic. Chewing long soft grass acts as a natural cleanser to help rid themselves of hair balls and internal parasites.
High Vantage Place - provide a [http://www.woofnwhiskers.co.uk/floor-to-ceiling-cat-scratch-post-p-1437.html]cat climber with high platforms. Cats spend much of their time just sitting and watching, looking for opportunities to hunt and to keep a watch on their territory. Cats feel secure the higher up they are as it gives them a better view of a much larger area. They can also provide indoor cats with something interesting to watch.
Hidden Sleeping Areas - Some cats like to curl up together and sometimes they just like to be on their own, so an out-of-the-way place gives your cat time to relax and get some 'me time'. Cardboard boxes, or igloo beds or just a soft blanket in a corner behind a chair are all possibilities and each cat is individual in their preferences.
Litter Trays - provide one [http://www.woofnwhiskers.co.uk/marchioro-cat-toilet-p-1344.html]litter tray per cat and clean it regularly, ideally after each use - if this isn't possible provide a few extra so your cats always have a clean tray to use. It may mean more work but it's definitely easier than cleaning it off the carpet! Hooded litter trays are usually a preference for most cats just ensure it is more than big enough for your cat to move around in and walk in and out of.
Scratching - Sisal scratch posts and mats are perfect as cats prefer a surface that 'moves' or shreds under the claws and doesn't snag, such as soft wood - explains why door jambs are so attractive! To encourage your cat to use a post use a liberal amount of catnip on the rope part of the scratcher or climber. Catnip is a natural substance that most adult cat's enjoy, rubbing where it has been sprayed, sniffing and scratching. Climbers also provide an opportunity for indoor cat's to climb, maintain and improve muscle strength that they do not have access to if the outdoors isn't an option.
Play - Cats can be great fun to play with and extremely amusing, but any interaction is generally on their terms. Most games preferred are of the hunting, stalking and attacking variety as play and hunting are basically the same thing to a cat. The more hungry a cat becomes, the more playful he becomes (3) This doesn't mean to say if you're cat is not very playful, you should starve him! But pick a time before a regular feed time or incorporate finding food as part of the play. It is also a great way to motivate fat cats into expending some energy, rather than trying to encourage them to play when they would rather be sleeping.
Fresh Air - Cats love the great outdoors even when it's raining - although an indoor vantage point is usually preferred on rainy days! Indoor cats can benefit greatly from an outdoor run attached to the house, or even a window grill so a window can be left open safely but still allow fresh air in along with all the tantalising scents that cats are so sensitive to.
There are few of us that can honestly say our cat has all of these things whenever their need for them arises, so if our cats do develop the odd unsavoury habit or annoying quirk, it is always worth assessing your home and garden from a cats point of view. It needn't be hard work enriching your home for indoor cats as constant small changes to their environment can provide new challenges and afford sufficient opportunities for exercise and mental stimulation that provide a healthy and fulfilling life. While it can take a bit of brain power from us, the benefits for both can be immense, great fun and build a greater bond and enjoyment from having a cat share your home.
Ref:
(1) Housing conditions and behavioural problems of indoor cats as assessed by their owners. Eva Heidenberger. Applied Animal Behaviour Science Vol 52 (3-4), 345-364
(2) Differences in food preferences between individuals and populations of domestic cats. J.W.S.Bradshaw et al. Applied Animal behaviour Science Vol 68 (3), 257-268
(3)The influence of hunger on object play by adult domestic cats. Sarah L.Hall and John W.S.Bradshall Applied Animal Behaviour Science Vol 58 (1-2), 143-150
Sarah Fields writes articles on pet related subjects. For the unabridged article visit [http://www.woofnwhiskers.co.uk/do-pet-cats-need-environmental-enrichment-a-37.html]Do Pet Cats Need Environmental Enrichment?
Environmental enrichment is a phrase many people are familiar with, but usually think of it as something only relevant to captive animals, such as those in zoos, not our pets. The actual meaning of the phrase is to provide an environment that the animal can interact with to indulge and satisfy its natural behaviours.
So, do our pet cats need environmental enrichment? Are our moggies basic instincts left unchallenged? Do we need to change the way we see our cat's role in our homes? The answer would seem to be yes. More and more owners, particularly of indoor cats (1), complain of problems, such as excessive spraying, aggression and destructive behaviour, so it would appear that although our cats seem to adapt to our lifestyles, modern living doesn't provide them with enough opportunity to indulge their natural instincts. Most cat's in the UK have access to the outdoors which does allow them greater choice and the ability to indulge natural behaviours and wants, such as hunting, playing, climbing, and scratching. However, it depends on the quality of the outdoors environment as to whether a cat will be able to fulfil all his natural needs. Many modern gardens provides little stimulation and sometimes other dominant cats in the area can mean your cat chooses not to go out, so improving your cat's life in your home to compensate can minimise many of the owner's commonly concerns.
Top Ten List for Preventing Behavioural Problems In Cats
Make Food A Challenge - The job is far easier achieved with dry kibble but with a bit of ingenuity any food can be used. Treat balls that dispense dry food in small quantities when batted and rolled can be used indoors, or for outdoor use the bottoms of cardboard egg cartons can be overturned and used to hide tasty morsels of chicken around the garden. Small boxes - the size that earrings, etc. come in - can be bought cheaply from craft shops and can be used to hide part of your cat's daily food ration around the house and help to engage his grey matter by working out how to remove the box lid. Toilet roll inners with one end pressed flat and taped closed with a couple of pieces of food dropped in make an interesting challenge for cat's who love to retrieve a reward and helps to improve dexterity.
Keep particular foods as treats, such as fresh fish and only give them once a week to maintain their rarity value and increase your cat's enjoyment of them. (2)
Don't provide water next to food - it's more natural for a cat to find food and water in separate locations, so place the water bowl in a different room. Use filtered water for those sensitive to the taste of chlorine or a pet fountain or a small indoor water feature in another room are great favourites with many cats.
Have more than one and spend time with them - If you have a single cat consider another to keep him company. Adult cats can sometimes be hard to integrate but even the grouchiest of single cats will generally tolerate kittens and younger cats under the age of six months very well. cats can sometimes be difficult to integrate consider a kitten as even the grouchiest of cats will generally tolerate a kitten or young cat under six months of age.
Grass - Grass can be bought and grown indoors and helps prevent cats chewing houseplants which can be toxic. Chewing long soft grass acts as a natural cleanser to help rid themselves of hair balls and internal parasites.
High Vantage Place - provide a [http://www.woofnwhiskers.co.uk/floor-to-ceiling-cat-scratch-post-p-1437.html]cat climber with high platforms. Cats spend much of their time just sitting and watching, looking for opportunities to hunt and to keep a watch on their territory. Cats feel secure the higher up they are as it gives them a better view of a much larger area. They can also provide indoor cats with something interesting to watch.
Hidden Sleeping Areas - Some cats like to curl up together and sometimes they just like to be on their own, so an out-of-the-way place gives your cat time to relax and get some 'me time'. Cardboard boxes, or igloo beds or just a soft blanket in a corner behind a chair are all possibilities and each cat is individual in their preferences.
Litter Trays - provide one [http://www.woofnwhiskers.co.uk/marchioro-cat-toilet-p-1344.html]litter tray per cat and clean it regularly, ideally after each use - if this isn't possible provide a few extra so your cats always have a clean tray to use. It may mean more work but it's definitely easier than cleaning it off the carpet! Hooded litter trays are usually a preference for most cats just ensure it is more than big enough for your cat to move around in and walk in and out of.
Scratching - Sisal scratch posts and mats are perfect as cats prefer a surface that 'moves' or shreds under the claws and doesn't snag, such as soft wood - explains why door jambs are so attractive! To encourage your cat to use a post use a liberal amount of catnip on the rope part of the scratcher or climber. Catnip is a natural substance that most adult cat's enjoy, rubbing where it has been sprayed, sniffing and scratching. Climbers also provide an opportunity for indoor cat's to climb, maintain and improve muscle strength that they do not have access to if the outdoors isn't an option.
Play - Cats can be great fun to play with and extremely amusing, but any interaction is generally on their terms. Most games preferred are of the hunting, stalking and attacking variety as play and hunting are basically the same thing to a cat. The more hungry a cat becomes, the more playful he becomes (3) This doesn't mean to say if you're cat is not very playful, you should starve him! But pick a time before a regular feed time or incorporate finding food as part of the play. It is also a great way to motivate fat cats into expending some energy, rather than trying to encourage them to play when they would rather be sleeping.
Fresh Air - Cats love the great outdoors even when it's raining - although an indoor vantage point is usually preferred on rainy days! Indoor cats can benefit greatly from an outdoor run attached to the house, or even a window grill so a window can be left open safely but still allow fresh air in along with all the tantalising scents that cats are so sensitive to.
There are few of us that can honestly say our cat has all of these things whenever their need for them arises, so if our cats do develop the odd unsavoury habit or annoying quirk, it is always worth assessing your home and garden from a cats point of view. It needn't be hard work enriching your home for indoor cats as constant small changes to their environment can provide new challenges and afford sufficient opportunities for exercise and mental stimulation that provide a healthy and fulfilling life. While it can take a bit of brain power from us, the benefits for both can be immense, great fun and build a greater bond and enjoyment from having a cat share your home.
Ref:
(1) Housing conditions and behavioural problems of indoor cats as assessed by their owners. Eva Heidenberger. Applied Animal Behaviour Science Vol 52 (3-4), 345-364
(2) Differences in food preferences between individuals and populations of domestic cats. J.W.S.Bradshaw et al. Applied Animal behaviour Science Vol 68 (3), 257-268
(3)The influence of hunger on object play by adult domestic cats. Sarah L.Hall and John W.S.Bradshall Applied Animal Behaviour Science Vol 58 (1-2), 143-150
Sarah Fields writes articles on pet related subjects. For the unabridged article visit [http://www.woofnwhiskers.co.uk/do-pet-cats-need-environmental-enrichment-a-37.html]Do Pet Cats Need Environmental Enrichment?
Monday, August 13, 2007
Feral Cats - Do They Make Good Pets?
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Kate_Tilmouth]Kate Tilmouth
The literal meaning of feral is �gone wild� and when used to describe a cat usually means that they have either been born in the wild or have once been domesticated but have been lost or abandoned and have reverted to the wild. Feral Cats are usually found living in groups or colonies where there is an easy and plentiful supply of food.
Feral cats may have very limited experience of human contact and so will generally keep away from people and run away if you try to approach them. However, as long as the cat is not too old, it is perfectly possible that they eventually could become very loving pets, if approached correctly. But be warned it can be a very long process of gentle persuasion and patience on your part. It can take weeks, even months before a feral cat may feel comfortable enough to be a part of your family.
It is essential that anyone considering re-homing a feral cat that they have a good understanding of cat behaviour and be prepared to take things at the cats pace. Cats generally learn by experience and so making the whole socialisation process a pleasant one will help to teach the cat not to be afraid of people and domestic life.
There are several steps to take to socialise your feral cat and each one can take weeks or months to complete and may even have to be repeated if a set back occurs. The first step is to provide the cat with a small room or pen where the cat cannot escape from and that does not have any hiding places. It should be a quiet area and be equipped with bedding, fresh water and food and a litter tray. Let them become accustomed to this area for a while before you attempt to introduce yourself to them. It is important that they feel safe.
Next spend some time with them, talking quietly to them but not attempting to touch them. After a while you may even be able to tempt them to take treats from your hand. Repeat this process daily until you sense that the cat is becoming less afraid of you. Only then try to stroke their head and back. If they back away, don�t worry; just repeat the hand treat regime for a few days more. A useful tip is not to look at your cat directly as they find this a threat. Instead either look away or half close your eyes.
Over time the cat will become used to you and realise that you are not a threat to them. At this stage let them wander around the rest of the house and become accustomed to the whole house. Make sure other people in the house approach the cat in the same way as yourself by offering treats. It can take some feral cats quite some time to accept the whole family.
If you have other cats around make sure your new feral cat has become use to their scent before he meets them, do this by rubbing their bedding around his living area, do the same for your existing cats. Feral cats usually respond well to domesticated cats and it can even help speed up the socialisation process, as they will learn from their behaviour.
Finally when you notice the cat grooming itself and happily using the litter tray, it is safe to let them explore the outside world. By this time they will have become use to you and your home and have probably made it part of their territory and so will return for that free dinner and comfy bed. Many feral cats have become very loving pets and have settled down to domestic life very well.
More cat health and cat care tips can be found at our site http://www.our-happy-cat.com A feline friendly community full of helpful advice and fun things to do to make sure you have a happy cat and a happy you.
Copyright 2007 Kate Tilmouth
The literal meaning of feral is �gone wild� and when used to describe a cat usually means that they have either been born in the wild or have once been domesticated but have been lost or abandoned and have reverted to the wild. Feral Cats are usually found living in groups or colonies where there is an easy and plentiful supply of food.
Feral cats may have very limited experience of human contact and so will generally keep away from people and run away if you try to approach them. However, as long as the cat is not too old, it is perfectly possible that they eventually could become very loving pets, if approached correctly. But be warned it can be a very long process of gentle persuasion and patience on your part. It can take weeks, even months before a feral cat may feel comfortable enough to be a part of your family.
It is essential that anyone considering re-homing a feral cat that they have a good understanding of cat behaviour and be prepared to take things at the cats pace. Cats generally learn by experience and so making the whole socialisation process a pleasant one will help to teach the cat not to be afraid of people and domestic life.
There are several steps to take to socialise your feral cat and each one can take weeks or months to complete and may even have to be repeated if a set back occurs. The first step is to provide the cat with a small room or pen where the cat cannot escape from and that does not have any hiding places. It should be a quiet area and be equipped with bedding, fresh water and food and a litter tray. Let them become accustomed to this area for a while before you attempt to introduce yourself to them. It is important that they feel safe.
Next spend some time with them, talking quietly to them but not attempting to touch them. After a while you may even be able to tempt them to take treats from your hand. Repeat this process daily until you sense that the cat is becoming less afraid of you. Only then try to stroke their head and back. If they back away, don�t worry; just repeat the hand treat regime for a few days more. A useful tip is not to look at your cat directly as they find this a threat. Instead either look away or half close your eyes.
Over time the cat will become used to you and realise that you are not a threat to them. At this stage let them wander around the rest of the house and become accustomed to the whole house. Make sure other people in the house approach the cat in the same way as yourself by offering treats. It can take some feral cats quite some time to accept the whole family.
If you have other cats around make sure your new feral cat has become use to their scent before he meets them, do this by rubbing their bedding around his living area, do the same for your existing cats. Feral cats usually respond well to domesticated cats and it can even help speed up the socialisation process, as they will learn from their behaviour.
Finally when you notice the cat grooming itself and happily using the litter tray, it is safe to let them explore the outside world. By this time they will have become use to you and your home and have probably made it part of their territory and so will return for that free dinner and comfy bed. Many feral cats have become very loving pets and have settled down to domestic life very well.
More cat health and cat care tips can be found at our site http://www.our-happy-cat.com A feline friendly community full of helpful advice and fun things to do to make sure you have a happy cat and a happy you.
Copyright 2007 Kate Tilmouth
Saturday, August 11, 2007
How to Train Your Cat Not to Kill Things
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Dennis_McAdams]Dennis McAdams
For most cat owners, expecting to find dead animals on their front step is all part of cat ownership. However, for many this can be extremely upsetting and they could find that their cat is bringing back dead animals more frequently than is acceptable. Now while you do unfortunately have to expect this behavior, it is sometimes possible to limit the amount of animals that your cat does actually bring home.
Understanding Your Cats Instinct
Before you can successfully stop your cat from acting a certain way, you need to first understand why they act in that way in the first place. Now with killing things, it is in a cat�s instinct to hunt, chase and kill smaller animals. They cannot control it and it is not a behavior that can be controlled. So in that sense, it is impossible for you to teach a cat not to hunt.
However, a cat will spend more time hunting if they have nothing better to do and so getting rid of their excess energy may help to control their hunting a little.
Getting Rid of Your Cats Excess Energy
In order to get rid of any extra energy that your cat may have, you will have to spend more time with them than you usually do. Playing games with them and allowing them to chase things in a controlled environment can really help to cut the chances of them bringing home a dead animal.
You can purchase a number of different toys from all pet stores that will allow you to exercise your cats hunting abilities. There are balls that you can roll away from you that your cat can chase. There are even small soft toy mice on the end of a string that allow you to pull the mouse along the floor and again your cat can chase them. Spending at least half an hour playing with your cat in this manner will really help them to get rid of any excess energy.
Overall you will unfortunately have to understand that hunting and killing is part of your cat�s personality. However, to limit the amount of dead animals found on your doorstep, you can try and get rid of your cat�s excess energy.
For more tips, ideas, and articles on training your new cat please visit my blog entitled [http://cat-training-expert.blogspot.com]Cat Training.
For most cat owners, expecting to find dead animals on their front step is all part of cat ownership. However, for many this can be extremely upsetting and they could find that their cat is bringing back dead animals more frequently than is acceptable. Now while you do unfortunately have to expect this behavior, it is sometimes possible to limit the amount of animals that your cat does actually bring home.
Understanding Your Cats Instinct
Before you can successfully stop your cat from acting a certain way, you need to first understand why they act in that way in the first place. Now with killing things, it is in a cat�s instinct to hunt, chase and kill smaller animals. They cannot control it and it is not a behavior that can be controlled. So in that sense, it is impossible for you to teach a cat not to hunt.
However, a cat will spend more time hunting if they have nothing better to do and so getting rid of their excess energy may help to control their hunting a little.
Getting Rid of Your Cats Excess Energy
In order to get rid of any extra energy that your cat may have, you will have to spend more time with them than you usually do. Playing games with them and allowing them to chase things in a controlled environment can really help to cut the chances of them bringing home a dead animal.
You can purchase a number of different toys from all pet stores that will allow you to exercise your cats hunting abilities. There are balls that you can roll away from you that your cat can chase. There are even small soft toy mice on the end of a string that allow you to pull the mouse along the floor and again your cat can chase them. Spending at least half an hour playing with your cat in this manner will really help them to get rid of any excess energy.
Overall you will unfortunately have to understand that hunting and killing is part of your cat�s personality. However, to limit the amount of dead animals found on your doorstep, you can try and get rid of your cat�s excess energy.
For more tips, ideas, and articles on training your new cat please visit my blog entitled [http://cat-training-expert.blogspot.com]Cat Training.
Thursday, August 9, 2007
Cat Urine Information
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Ron_King]Ron King
Cats are naturally territorial animals. This becomes a problem when your cat decides to mark it's territory on your curtains, carpet and couches. It can be a difficult situation to deal with, especially in multi-cat households, where cats tend to return to the "scene of the crime."
Preventative Measures
Cats are mostly very clean animals but there are few reasons why one will urinate somewhere other than their litter box. The key to avoiding accidents is ensuring the litter box is kept clean at all times.
If the litter box is filthy the cat will start looking for alternatives. This could mean they will urinate beside it or often find another place in your house that suits them. Most often they will use your plants as a replacement, for their litter box, but other times it may be on the carpet or a piece of furniture.
Once a cat has done this, especially a young one, if the odor is not removed promptly they tend to return to the same spot over and over to urinate or take care of other business. They do this because they instinctively believe that the site they used before is where the litter box is now placed. This is something that needs to be avoided at all costs.
Should it come to that, you are presented with the problem of cleaning it up time and time again.
Stop the Smell
First the urine must be cleaned. Use paper towels and allow them to soak up as much of the pee as possible before you use something to clean and deodorize the spot. One way to clean a place that your cat has marked is by using one of the many pet cleaning products, most of which have some type of odor remover as well as stain eliminator.
White vinegar often works well on spots. If you are not satisfied with the results from using the white vinegar, then baby wipes are also highly recommended as a cleaning product. There are also many natural odor removers that use special enzymes. Searching the Internet will provide dozens of other products for removing the urine odor.
The best thing you can do is keep your cat's litter box clean. Unless there are underlying health issues, this should keep your cat from choosing other places in the house to urinate which should leave you with a fresh and clean house to enjoy.
For free ezines, ecourses, and ebooks click [http://www.777-now.com]Free Info Products.
Click for Ron King's [http://www.ronxking.com/Articles.html]Articles For Authors OR [http://www.new-cat.com]Cat Information.
Copyright 2007 Win-Win Marketing. This article may be reprinted if the resource box is left intact and the links live.
Cats are naturally territorial animals. This becomes a problem when your cat decides to mark it's territory on your curtains, carpet and couches. It can be a difficult situation to deal with, especially in multi-cat households, where cats tend to return to the "scene of the crime."
Preventative Measures
Cats are mostly very clean animals but there are few reasons why one will urinate somewhere other than their litter box. The key to avoiding accidents is ensuring the litter box is kept clean at all times.
If the litter box is filthy the cat will start looking for alternatives. This could mean they will urinate beside it or often find another place in your house that suits them. Most often they will use your plants as a replacement, for their litter box, but other times it may be on the carpet or a piece of furniture.
Once a cat has done this, especially a young one, if the odor is not removed promptly they tend to return to the same spot over and over to urinate or take care of other business. They do this because they instinctively believe that the site they used before is where the litter box is now placed. This is something that needs to be avoided at all costs.
Should it come to that, you are presented with the problem of cleaning it up time and time again.
Stop the Smell
First the urine must be cleaned. Use paper towels and allow them to soak up as much of the pee as possible before you use something to clean and deodorize the spot. One way to clean a place that your cat has marked is by using one of the many pet cleaning products, most of which have some type of odor remover as well as stain eliminator.
White vinegar often works well on spots. If you are not satisfied with the results from using the white vinegar, then baby wipes are also highly recommended as a cleaning product. There are also many natural odor removers that use special enzymes. Searching the Internet will provide dozens of other products for removing the urine odor.
The best thing you can do is keep your cat's litter box clean. Unless there are underlying health issues, this should keep your cat from choosing other places in the house to urinate which should leave you with a fresh and clean house to enjoy.
For free ezines, ecourses, and ebooks click [http://www.777-now.com]Free Info Products.
Click for Ron King's [http://www.ronxking.com/Articles.html]Articles For Authors OR [http://www.new-cat.com]Cat Information.
Copyright 2007 Win-Win Marketing. This article may be reprinted if the resource box is left intact and the links live.
Tuesday, August 7, 2007
Cat Declawing, Should I do it?
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Bart_Dysput]Bart Dysput
As an owner of 6 cats (only 2 aggressive) and even more expensive furniture I know exactly how you feel. I wanted my cat declawed (onychectomy), but I heard so many awful things that turned me to so many confusing places. Through my successful experience I outlined everything here to save you the time and get straight to the answers. So lets begin, well first of all we can right off the bat say the declawing is a painful procedure and should be looked at as a last resort to control the cat's (normal) behavior to scratch. The purpose of the actual cat scratching is to remove old, worn fragments of nails. This piece will help you to eliminate the root cause of the cat's behavior to scratch furniture and/or people, and will save you time and money. money.
* scratching is a natural cat behavior
This is a natural cat behavior and there are many ways and methods to turn cats away from the furniture and closer to more "scratch-friendly" areas, which we will discuss later in this informative piece. To find the solution we first have to find out and personalize a plan for your specific cat (what works for one cat many not always work for another) and we will talk about this more very soon. We can also say that we would take away the cat's primary means of defense, which for some cats biting takes over being the secondary defense (rarely happens). We can also say for certain the best age to declaw a cat is between 3-5 months while it is still younger. This is because at this age the recovery period would be the shortest and it would be safest around the time they are neutered or spayed.
* cat declawing is a critical decision to make
Can a cat's behavior change after the declaw? Numerous scientific studies have been unable to document any behavior changes post-declaw. However a lot of research also points out a lot of this depends on the cat's treatment long before the actual declawing. We can also point out declawing does not affect the cat's walking ability or balance after the recovery, but be sure your dedicated to being able to keep your cat indoors due to the removal of it's primary defense. Although some cats can survive outside there have been numerous reports of cats being injured outdoors due to not being able to defend themselves well enough with their teeth. Let's also say that if the cat has an infection it cannot spread it around.
So lets move to the more important part, how do I fix my cat's behavior of scratching at furniture and/or people. There are a vast number of alternatives of declawing. Although some are more expensive and convenient then others we will list them all here then later in detail explain which are more expensive and convenient. Also as I said before some cats work better with some alternatives. Some alternatives to really look into are scratching posts, cardboard scratchers, cat tree construction, cat-friendly end tables and furniture, soft paws, nail trimming, training cats, and simply more exercise. There are many ways to improve the chances of each of these alternatives to work. For scratching posts, cardboard scratchers, cat trees, and cat-friendly furniture, it is recommended to sprinkle catnip on these areas to make them more attractive and to add unfriendly scratching material on the furniture usually scratched. Also remember to keep these items close to the family active areas, and to feed and play beside them so the cats enjoy using them, while slowly moving them to the areas where the cat would be alone most of the time.
For more solutions and information please browse around our website. http://www.declawing-cat.com/
Cat Declawing Expert
As an owner of 6 cats (only 2 aggressive) and even more expensive furniture I know exactly how you feel. I wanted my cat declawed (onychectomy), but I heard so many awful things that turned me to so many confusing places. Through my successful experience I outlined everything here to save you the time and get straight to the answers. So lets begin, well first of all we can right off the bat say the declawing is a painful procedure and should be looked at as a last resort to control the cat's (normal) behavior to scratch. The purpose of the actual cat scratching is to remove old, worn fragments of nails. This piece will help you to eliminate the root cause of the cat's behavior to scratch furniture and/or people, and will save you time and money. money.
* scratching is a natural cat behavior
This is a natural cat behavior and there are many ways and methods to turn cats away from the furniture and closer to more "scratch-friendly" areas, which we will discuss later in this informative piece. To find the solution we first have to find out and personalize a plan for your specific cat (what works for one cat many not always work for another) and we will talk about this more very soon. We can also say that we would take away the cat's primary means of defense, which for some cats biting takes over being the secondary defense (rarely happens). We can also say for certain the best age to declaw a cat is between 3-5 months while it is still younger. This is because at this age the recovery period would be the shortest and it would be safest around the time they are neutered or spayed.
* cat declawing is a critical decision to make
Can a cat's behavior change after the declaw? Numerous scientific studies have been unable to document any behavior changes post-declaw. However a lot of research also points out a lot of this depends on the cat's treatment long before the actual declawing. We can also point out declawing does not affect the cat's walking ability or balance after the recovery, but be sure your dedicated to being able to keep your cat indoors due to the removal of it's primary defense. Although some cats can survive outside there have been numerous reports of cats being injured outdoors due to not being able to defend themselves well enough with their teeth. Let's also say that if the cat has an infection it cannot spread it around.
So lets move to the more important part, how do I fix my cat's behavior of scratching at furniture and/or people. There are a vast number of alternatives of declawing. Although some are more expensive and convenient then others we will list them all here then later in detail explain which are more expensive and convenient. Also as I said before some cats work better with some alternatives. Some alternatives to really look into are scratching posts, cardboard scratchers, cat tree construction, cat-friendly end tables and furniture, soft paws, nail trimming, training cats, and simply more exercise. There are many ways to improve the chances of each of these alternatives to work. For scratching posts, cardboard scratchers, cat trees, and cat-friendly furniture, it is recommended to sprinkle catnip on these areas to make them more attractive and to add unfriendly scratching material on the furniture usually scratched. Also remember to keep these items close to the family active areas, and to feed and play beside them so the cats enjoy using them, while slowly moving them to the areas where the cat would be alone most of the time.
For more solutions and information please browse around our website. http://www.declawing-cat.com/
Cat Declawing Expert
Sunday, August 5, 2007
Spraying in the Home - How to Successfully Eliminate it
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Dennis_McAdams]Dennis McAdams
If you happen to own a male cat then you may have come across the problem of spraying in the home. It is a particularly unpleasant problem and it can be extremely frustrating at times. So just how do you stop your cat from spraying in the home?
Understanding Your Cats Spraying Problem
A male cat will spray around the home for two main reasons. Either he is marking his territory, or he has simply not gotten used to the litter tray yet. Now mainly the problem is likely to be territorial marking and many owners think that by getting their cat neutered, it will automatically stop this behavior. However it doesn�t and there is every chance that your cat will still spray once they are neutered.
The main reason a cat marks their territory indoors is because they feel insecure about their surroundings. Perhaps something has changed recently, such as a new pet in the home or a new baby? If you have moved recently that could also cause a problem. So once you have figured out why your cat could feel insecure, you can then work to make them feel at ease again.
Increasing Your Cats Confidence
The best way to increase your cat�s confidence is to give them plenty of attention. Spend more time playing games and cuddling the cat when they let you! By talking to him constantly and giving him regular treats, he will soon start to feel more comfortable where he is and that should, in theory, stop him from marking his territory. Now it may not work overnight, but given time he should really come around and the problem should eventually stop.
Of course the problem could also be that the cat does not like their litter tray. Many cats will only use a litter tray if it is completely clean. So make sure that you clean their litter tray daily in order to give your cat somewhere clean to relieve themselves.
Overall cat spray in the home can be a frustrating and disgusting problem to have to deal with. However, with a little time, love and affection your cat can be taught not to spray in the home. It is just usually a matter of boosting their confidence and you should notice that once you do that the problem will start to disappear.
For more tips, ideas, and articles on training your new cat please visit my blog entitled [http://cat-training-expert.blogspot.com]Cat Training
If you happen to own a male cat then you may have come across the problem of spraying in the home. It is a particularly unpleasant problem and it can be extremely frustrating at times. So just how do you stop your cat from spraying in the home?
Understanding Your Cats Spraying Problem
A male cat will spray around the home for two main reasons. Either he is marking his territory, or he has simply not gotten used to the litter tray yet. Now mainly the problem is likely to be territorial marking and many owners think that by getting their cat neutered, it will automatically stop this behavior. However it doesn�t and there is every chance that your cat will still spray once they are neutered.
The main reason a cat marks their territory indoors is because they feel insecure about their surroundings. Perhaps something has changed recently, such as a new pet in the home or a new baby? If you have moved recently that could also cause a problem. So once you have figured out why your cat could feel insecure, you can then work to make them feel at ease again.
Increasing Your Cats Confidence
The best way to increase your cat�s confidence is to give them plenty of attention. Spend more time playing games and cuddling the cat when they let you! By talking to him constantly and giving him regular treats, he will soon start to feel more comfortable where he is and that should, in theory, stop him from marking his territory. Now it may not work overnight, but given time he should really come around and the problem should eventually stop.
Of course the problem could also be that the cat does not like their litter tray. Many cats will only use a litter tray if it is completely clean. So make sure that you clean their litter tray daily in order to give your cat somewhere clean to relieve themselves.
Overall cat spray in the home can be a frustrating and disgusting problem to have to deal with. However, with a little time, love and affection your cat can be taught not to spray in the home. It is just usually a matter of boosting their confidence and you should notice that once you do that the problem will start to disappear.
For more tips, ideas, and articles on training your new cat please visit my blog entitled [http://cat-training-expert.blogspot.com]Cat Training
Friday, August 3, 2007
Cat Races: And They Are Off
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Bridgitte_Williams]Bridgitte Williams
Welcome to the daily event in my household known as cat racing. I have three cats but, two of them are highly competitive and have evolved into speed demons. I should have named them after race car drivers. They take chances. They are daring. I could sell tickets. These cats can be fast and love to see who is the fastest.
It starts in the morning. The first event is the who can make it to the food bowl first race. It does not matter if I have not put any cat food in the food bowl yet. I only have to put my feet on the floor to start this exciting event. From a lazy position to a run in less than one second, both cats are racing to the bowls. One of the cats is usually faster than the other but, sometimes, the slow one will pull a surprise cut off maneuver. She will fly through and around the legs of chairs, the table and astoundingly beat the faster cat to the bowls. If luck is on her side, sometimes the faster cat goes sliding right by the food bowls and the slow cat wins by default. She is so proud.
The next event is the water bowl race. This is more of a sprint, since the water bowl is close to the cat food bowls. The faster cat usually makes a hasty dash and wins but, occasionally, the slow one will pull a power move and leap over the other cat, to win. The fast cat has been known to hop in this event also, which leaves me laughing. She will do one long hop, like a rabbit, to the water bowl. The slow cat is usually so amazed by this, she can only look stunned. I have two water bowls for them but, they have a favorite bowl. Reaching it first, is the prize. I guess the satisfaction of drinking from it first is like catching a canary.
The next race is the litter box run. All of that water that the cats drank seems to kick in at the same time, in both cats. This competition is a bit fierce. These cats insist on using the same litter box. I could have five litter boxes out and they still would use the same one. At the same exact moment, both cats start walking slowly to the litter box, then notice that the other is headed in the same direction. They both begin trotting, then break into a run. The fast cat usually leaps into the box, sending cat litter flying and scattering dust into the face of the slower cat. The slow cat gives a sour look and begins to do a major stare down at the other cat. Once in a while, a hiss or growl is exchanged but, usually, the stare down contest is lost and the slower cat retreats and waits her turn. Whew.
The next race is the beat the cat owner back into the room race. This race starts when I leave the room that the cats are in and go somewhere else in the house. The cats come to find me. As I start to go back to the original room, the cats turn and start running. They are off! Sometimes I walk too fast and step on the slow cat. The fast cat tries to predict what room I am going to. This is fun because it is a fair race for the slow cat. If I choose a room that the fast cat is not already in, the slow cat wins. The fast cat saunters in, after some time has passed, trying to act casual and admits defeat. The look on the slower cats' face is priceless. Much like the early bird getting the worm. The prize is being closest to me. Aw!
The final race that I will tell you about is the leap on the clean sheets first race. My cats do not sleep with me but, they like to be the first to leap on the clean sheets immediately after I change them. They know that I am going to cover the sheets with a blanket, so they have to be quick. It is also no fun for them to land on the bed together. One cat must always beat the other onto the clean sheets and it is a standing rule that the loser does not jump on the bed with the winner. As I finish changing the sheets, each cat takes their position, ready to leap. This is a strategic and calculating race that defies gravity. When the cats make their leap attempt, the winner lands on the bed and the loser has to freeze, turn in mid air, after seeing the winner land and land back on the floor. On their feet. They always do. I am always amazed and impressed by this highly gymnastic leap, freeze and turn. It gets a dazzling ten rating from me every time. I do not see how even a cat can bend like that. The winner in this race sits proudly on the clean sheets until I shoo her off. I love cats. Cats are crazy.
Bridgitte Williams is a cat owner. Her web site can be visited at http://beep.com/members/bridgitte/index.htm
Welcome to the daily event in my household known as cat racing. I have three cats but, two of them are highly competitive and have evolved into speed demons. I should have named them after race car drivers. They take chances. They are daring. I could sell tickets. These cats can be fast and love to see who is the fastest.
It starts in the morning. The first event is the who can make it to the food bowl first race. It does not matter if I have not put any cat food in the food bowl yet. I only have to put my feet on the floor to start this exciting event. From a lazy position to a run in less than one second, both cats are racing to the bowls. One of the cats is usually faster than the other but, sometimes, the slow one will pull a surprise cut off maneuver. She will fly through and around the legs of chairs, the table and astoundingly beat the faster cat to the bowls. If luck is on her side, sometimes the faster cat goes sliding right by the food bowls and the slow cat wins by default. She is so proud.
The next event is the water bowl race. This is more of a sprint, since the water bowl is close to the cat food bowls. The faster cat usually makes a hasty dash and wins but, occasionally, the slow one will pull a power move and leap over the other cat, to win. The fast cat has been known to hop in this event also, which leaves me laughing. She will do one long hop, like a rabbit, to the water bowl. The slow cat is usually so amazed by this, she can only look stunned. I have two water bowls for them but, they have a favorite bowl. Reaching it first, is the prize. I guess the satisfaction of drinking from it first is like catching a canary.
The next race is the litter box run. All of that water that the cats drank seems to kick in at the same time, in both cats. This competition is a bit fierce. These cats insist on using the same litter box. I could have five litter boxes out and they still would use the same one. At the same exact moment, both cats start walking slowly to the litter box, then notice that the other is headed in the same direction. They both begin trotting, then break into a run. The fast cat usually leaps into the box, sending cat litter flying and scattering dust into the face of the slower cat. The slow cat gives a sour look and begins to do a major stare down at the other cat. Once in a while, a hiss or growl is exchanged but, usually, the stare down contest is lost and the slower cat retreats and waits her turn. Whew.
The next race is the beat the cat owner back into the room race. This race starts when I leave the room that the cats are in and go somewhere else in the house. The cats come to find me. As I start to go back to the original room, the cats turn and start running. They are off! Sometimes I walk too fast and step on the slow cat. The fast cat tries to predict what room I am going to. This is fun because it is a fair race for the slow cat. If I choose a room that the fast cat is not already in, the slow cat wins. The fast cat saunters in, after some time has passed, trying to act casual and admits defeat. The look on the slower cats' face is priceless. Much like the early bird getting the worm. The prize is being closest to me. Aw!
The final race that I will tell you about is the leap on the clean sheets first race. My cats do not sleep with me but, they like to be the first to leap on the clean sheets immediately after I change them. They know that I am going to cover the sheets with a blanket, so they have to be quick. It is also no fun for them to land on the bed together. One cat must always beat the other onto the clean sheets and it is a standing rule that the loser does not jump on the bed with the winner. As I finish changing the sheets, each cat takes their position, ready to leap. This is a strategic and calculating race that defies gravity. When the cats make their leap attempt, the winner lands on the bed and the loser has to freeze, turn in mid air, after seeing the winner land and land back on the floor. On their feet. They always do. I am always amazed and impressed by this highly gymnastic leap, freeze and turn. It gets a dazzling ten rating from me every time. I do not see how even a cat can bend like that. The winner in this race sits proudly on the clean sheets until I shoo her off. I love cats. Cats are crazy.
Bridgitte Williams is a cat owner. Her web site can be visited at http://beep.com/members/bridgitte/index.htm
Wednesday, August 1, 2007
How Exactly Does Training a Cat Work?
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Dennis_McAdams]Dennis McAdams
When it comes to our pets, it would be fantastic if we could train them how to do exactly what we want them to do. Training is only usually associated with dogs, but the fact is that all animals can be trained in some way and cats are certainly no exception.
The Basics of Cat Training
Cats can be trained to do a number of things. So, whether you want them to stop bringing mice back to your front door, to use their litter tray correctly, or even to just use the toilet instead, cats can be taught how to behave; you just need to know the basics. Training a cat is obviously very different to training a dog. With a dog you teach them things such as �stay�, �fetch�, and �heel�. However, with a cat you are generally just training them to change their behavior slightly. You do not want them to do anything spectacular (though some trainers have been able to teach their cats to perform); you mainly just want to teach them how to behave in a more appropriate manner.
Generally you need to understand your cat before you begin to train them and usually you should find that the following applies:
�Cats Will Continue to Misbehave as Long as There is Reward
Firstly you need to understand that your cat does not know right from wrong. They do things because it is a joy for them to do them. An example would be scratching their claws on the sofa. They continue to do it because it feels good when they do it. They will only not do something if it is unpleasant to do. So this means that if you want to train your cat, you have to make the preferred behavior rewarding and any behavior you want to put a stop to, will need to be a negative experience.
�Knowing When to Reprimand the Cat
A very common mistake which many cat owners make when it comes to disciplining their cat, is reprimanding them once the crime has already been committed. More often than not we are not with our cats when they actual misbehave and so we try to reprimand them by showing them the problem. The trouble with this is that the cat has absolutely no idea what you are reprimanding them for and so the punishment is not doing any good.
Overall training a cat to change its behavior can be hard work but it can be done as long as you have persistence and understanding.
For more tips, ideas, and articles on training your new cat please visit my blog entitled [http://cat-training-expert.blogspot.com]Cat Training.
When it comes to our pets, it would be fantastic if we could train them how to do exactly what we want them to do. Training is only usually associated with dogs, but the fact is that all animals can be trained in some way and cats are certainly no exception.
The Basics of Cat Training
Cats can be trained to do a number of things. So, whether you want them to stop bringing mice back to your front door, to use their litter tray correctly, or even to just use the toilet instead, cats can be taught how to behave; you just need to know the basics. Training a cat is obviously very different to training a dog. With a dog you teach them things such as �stay�, �fetch�, and �heel�. However, with a cat you are generally just training them to change their behavior slightly. You do not want them to do anything spectacular (though some trainers have been able to teach their cats to perform); you mainly just want to teach them how to behave in a more appropriate manner.
Generally you need to understand your cat before you begin to train them and usually you should find that the following applies:
�Cats Will Continue to Misbehave as Long as There is Reward
Firstly you need to understand that your cat does not know right from wrong. They do things because it is a joy for them to do them. An example would be scratching their claws on the sofa. They continue to do it because it feels good when they do it. They will only not do something if it is unpleasant to do. So this means that if you want to train your cat, you have to make the preferred behavior rewarding and any behavior you want to put a stop to, will need to be a negative experience.
�Knowing When to Reprimand the Cat
A very common mistake which many cat owners make when it comes to disciplining their cat, is reprimanding them once the crime has already been committed. More often than not we are not with our cats when they actual misbehave and so we try to reprimand them by showing them the problem. The trouble with this is that the cat has absolutely no idea what you are reprimanding them for and so the punishment is not doing any good.
Overall training a cat to change its behavior can be hard work but it can be done as long as you have persistence and understanding.
For more tips, ideas, and articles on training your new cat please visit my blog entitled [http://cat-training-expert.blogspot.com]Cat Training.
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