By Harold Febis
If you have a cat you may have to face the job of clean-up cat urine odor from carpets and you know how hard removing cat urine odor can be. Cats drink little water so their urine is very concentrated and stinking. That ammonia-like smell is so strong that it seems not possible to get rid of.
As cat urine is protein based it is hard to remove. This is because the urine is made up of three major elements. These are the sticky stuff known as Urea, Urochrome the pigments part and the odor Uric acid component.
Because cleaning cat urine is quite a task you might want to learn diverse ways to get rid of it.
Don't use cleaners that contain ammonia
Pass up using ordinary household cleaning products such as carpet, surface, and upholstery cleaners. These products might camouflage the odor of cat urine, but they won't remove it. If you use cleaning products that hold ammonia, it will only magnetize the cat back to the same spots because ammonia smells just like cat urine. Your cat will still be able to smell the urine, which tells the cat that it's a good spot to urinate.
Use a high quality cat urine remover
Choose a product that is made especially for removing cat urine odor. This product could be enzymatic, bacteria-based, chemical- based, or a combination of these. To effectively get rid of cat urine odor you have to use a high quality cat urine remover.
Don't scrub the carpet
Finding the exact spots on the mat to clean could be a major problem. the cat urine is not in the mat but in the mat padding underside so you need to try and remove that cat urine from deep down below the mat. You can do this by pressing down on some towels laid over the mat or by putting some heavy books on top of a towel and let it site over night. It's never a good idea to scrub the mat as it will absorb the urine deep into its fibers.
Use a quality cat urine odor Neutralizer
When a cat feels anxious, it will mark by urinating as a means of communicating to other cats that this is his place. Using any kind of cat urine odor neutralizer when cleaning your carpet is essential to remove any trace of an odor. This is really important, not for you but for your cat. Your cat has a very good sense of smell, and if they smell urine in a spot, they will likely go there again. A good quality cat urine odor neutralizer should be used after you have cleaned the area very well. An enzyme based cat urine remover is needed to completely clean away cat urine.
By following these tips you will get rid of cat urine odor sooner than you think.
For more information about tips ways to get rid of cat urine odor visit our websites at: http://www.caturineremover.info http://gemailmarketing.com/caturine
Tuesday, November 27, 2007
Friday, November 23, 2007
Why You Should Want to Get Rid of Cat Fleas!
By Michelle Noble
Does your cat have fleas? A cat that is scratching and biting itself definitely has some kind of skin irritation, and it could be caused by cat fleas. There are several ways to determine if fleas are the source of your cat's angst.
Fleas are small dark brown insects that are visible to the eye if you part the fur and examine your cat's skin. They have powerful back legs and are capable of jumping and moving easily through fur. If you are unsure, stand your cat on a piece of white paper, and rough up the coat. Should dark specs fall onto the paper, lightly spray them with a demister bottle containing water. If the dark specs then appear to 'bleed' onto the paper with a reddish stain, you are seeing flea dirt- the feces of adult fleas, composed mainly your cat's dried blood. A salt and pepper colored residue on your cat's skin is also a good sign of fleas. The white specs are flea eggs and the dark specs are the flea 'dirt' upon which the newly hatched larvae will soon feed.
There are several adverse effects of fleas, both for your cat and for other mammals, including humans, sharing the environment. The initial bite from a flea causes itching and irritation; however many cats develop an allergic response to the flea's saliva, causing significant discomfort and distress. Cats that are allergic to flea bites often chew the affected area until the skin loses its hair and the area is red and raw. Dermatitis can result from this allergic response, causing the cat a continual aggravation- it's the itch that just won't go away!
Cat fleas also act as a host to an intestinal parasite- the dog tape worm- which is ingested by your cat during grooming. Many fleas carry a tapeworm cyst. These tapeworms develop inside your cat's intestines, exiting as small worm segments around the anus. This is a very common form of tapeworm in cats and fleas are the root cause.
Perhaps the most serious effect of fleas is the anemia that accompanies a virulent infestation, particularly in kittens. Untreated, a young cat can die from blood-loss or develop haemobartonellosis, a complication from the anemia caused by a microorganism carried by the flea. Blood transfusions, antibiotics and steroids are some of the treatments that may be required to save a cat struck down by this illness.
While the adverse effects of cat fleas on your pet are obvious, they are just as serious for humans. We are equally capable of developing a painful and allergic reaction to flea bites as our pets. Since fleas can jump more than 12 inches, they have the capacity to swarm our feet, ankles and lower legs, attacking us relentlessly as they gorge themselves on our blood.
Now that you understand the seriousness of fleas on a cat, you can take steps to get rid of cat fleas.
Michelle Robinson has been an animal advocate and pet lover all her life. She is particularly committed to the wellbeing of domestic pets-cats, in particular. She knows that the distress caused by cat fleas harms your cat's health. For information about cat fleas, and solutions that work to cat flea problems, visit her website at http://www.flealesscats.com
Does your cat have fleas? A cat that is scratching and biting itself definitely has some kind of skin irritation, and it could be caused by cat fleas. There are several ways to determine if fleas are the source of your cat's angst.
Fleas are small dark brown insects that are visible to the eye if you part the fur and examine your cat's skin. They have powerful back legs and are capable of jumping and moving easily through fur. If you are unsure, stand your cat on a piece of white paper, and rough up the coat. Should dark specs fall onto the paper, lightly spray them with a demister bottle containing water. If the dark specs then appear to 'bleed' onto the paper with a reddish stain, you are seeing flea dirt- the feces of adult fleas, composed mainly your cat's dried blood. A salt and pepper colored residue on your cat's skin is also a good sign of fleas. The white specs are flea eggs and the dark specs are the flea 'dirt' upon which the newly hatched larvae will soon feed.
There are several adverse effects of fleas, both for your cat and for other mammals, including humans, sharing the environment. The initial bite from a flea causes itching and irritation; however many cats develop an allergic response to the flea's saliva, causing significant discomfort and distress. Cats that are allergic to flea bites often chew the affected area until the skin loses its hair and the area is red and raw. Dermatitis can result from this allergic response, causing the cat a continual aggravation- it's the itch that just won't go away!
Cat fleas also act as a host to an intestinal parasite- the dog tape worm- which is ingested by your cat during grooming. Many fleas carry a tapeworm cyst. These tapeworms develop inside your cat's intestines, exiting as small worm segments around the anus. This is a very common form of tapeworm in cats and fleas are the root cause.
Perhaps the most serious effect of fleas is the anemia that accompanies a virulent infestation, particularly in kittens. Untreated, a young cat can die from blood-loss or develop haemobartonellosis, a complication from the anemia caused by a microorganism carried by the flea. Blood transfusions, antibiotics and steroids are some of the treatments that may be required to save a cat struck down by this illness.
While the adverse effects of cat fleas on your pet are obvious, they are just as serious for humans. We are equally capable of developing a painful and allergic reaction to flea bites as our pets. Since fleas can jump more than 12 inches, they have the capacity to swarm our feet, ankles and lower legs, attacking us relentlessly as they gorge themselves on our blood.
Now that you understand the seriousness of fleas on a cat, you can take steps to get rid of cat fleas.
Michelle Robinson has been an animal advocate and pet lover all her life. She is particularly committed to the wellbeing of domestic pets-cats, in particular. She knows that the distress caused by cat fleas harms your cat's health. For information about cat fleas, and solutions that work to cat flea problems, visit her website at http://www.flealesscats.com
Wednesday, November 21, 2007
Causes Of Feline Obesity, Or Why Your Cat Is Fat
By Darlene L. Norris
Did you know that nearly half of the cats in the US are obese? This doesn't mean just a little overweight, but seriously fat! If your kitty is one of them, he's at risk for feline diabetes, arthritis, and other life-threatening health issues.
Why are our kitties getting heavier and heavier? Pure and simple, we're just feeding them way too much. You can't argue with the fact that you'll gain weight if you take in more calories than you use. This is true whether you're a person or an animal. It used to be that we had to work hard to get our food. Kitties did too. Their food didn't just magically appear in their dishes; they had to go out and hunt for it. They got plenty of exercise hunting. Portion control played a role here too, as a mouse is only so big. If he wanted more to eat, he had to hunt for it.
Most of us leave dry food out all the time for our buddies. This is called "free choice feeding." We all think our babies will starve if they don't have food available to them all the time. But the truth is that free choice feeding is probably the single biggest cause of feline obesity. Your furball won't appreciate this, but throw that feeder away! Start feeding him two or three times a day instead. Cut back on his portion size too. Feed according to his target weight, not according to what he weighs.
Dry food is extremely high in carbohydrates, since it's mostly grain. Your kitty was meant to eat meat, not grain. The extra carbs are stored in his body as fat. Plus carb-rich food causes his blood sugar to stay higher for longer, causing insulin resistance. And he's well on his way to feline diabetes at this point. Most dry foods are low in protein. For this reason, feeding a high-quality canned food is healthier for your furball. And many kitties lose weight when they're changed over to canned food.
Don't get hung up on the recommended feeding instructions on the bag or can. It's a known fact that if you feed your kitty the amount recommended on the bag, he'll eventually get too heavy. A kitty that's been spayed or neutered needs only 75-80% of the amount of food an intact feline needs. Remember that spaying or neutering will NOT make your furry friend fat. He'll only get fat if you feed him too much. If your buddy doesn't get much exercise, he needs less food, too. And like humans, as your buddy gets older, his metabolism slows down, and he's more prone to gaining weight. So you may need to adjust his food intake as he ages. Regardless of what the bag says, if he's gaining weight, feed him less!
We love our furballs, and we think we need to show our love with food, which is why cat treats sell so well. Most of these treats have a high carb level, and flavoring that encourage your kitty to eat when he's not hungry. Sound familiar? If your kitty is roaming around restlessly and meowing, this is normal behavior for a feline. It doesn't mean he's hungry. Never give him a treat to make him be quiet. All you're doing is rewarding him for vocalizing, and he'll do it more. Give him your attention instead.
Most kitties seem to spend all their time sleeping. If you want your buddy to lose weight, you need to increase his activity level. This can be hard to do, as it's hard to take your kitty for a run like you would with a dog. Plus cats are often left alone for hours, and there's nothing else to do but sleep.
You may want to consider adopting a kitten. Once they get used to each other, they'll probably run around playing and chasing each other. If this isn't feasible, try to find some toys that will get him moving. He'd probably enjoy playing with a fishing pole-type toy. A video with chirping birds or rustling mice may get him up and stalking the TV set.
You need to monitor your buddy's weight so you can adjust his food intake if he starts gaining weight. Get a good scale, and weigh him at least once a week. Preventing weight gain is much easier than taking off unwanted pounds later.
Darlene L. Norris has been owned by many kitties over the years. Now I've combined my love for cats and my life-long interest in herbs and healing at Your Cat Care Guide Information on natural remedies for cats can be hard to find. Stay up-to-date on the latest herbal and homeopathic treatments for your feline friends!
You're feeding your cat a low-carb, high-protein diet, and making sure he's getting more exercise. Is there anything else you can do? Visit http://www.your-cat-care-guide.com/weight-management.html to learn about a natural remedy that's specially formulated to help your pet lose weight naturally by stimulating his metabolism and improving his his body's ability to eliminate fat.
Did you know that nearly half of the cats in the US are obese? This doesn't mean just a little overweight, but seriously fat! If your kitty is one of them, he's at risk for feline diabetes, arthritis, and other life-threatening health issues.
Why are our kitties getting heavier and heavier? Pure and simple, we're just feeding them way too much. You can't argue with the fact that you'll gain weight if you take in more calories than you use. This is true whether you're a person or an animal. It used to be that we had to work hard to get our food. Kitties did too. Their food didn't just magically appear in their dishes; they had to go out and hunt for it. They got plenty of exercise hunting. Portion control played a role here too, as a mouse is only so big. If he wanted more to eat, he had to hunt for it.
Most of us leave dry food out all the time for our buddies. This is called "free choice feeding." We all think our babies will starve if they don't have food available to them all the time. But the truth is that free choice feeding is probably the single biggest cause of feline obesity. Your furball won't appreciate this, but throw that feeder away! Start feeding him two or three times a day instead. Cut back on his portion size too. Feed according to his target weight, not according to what he weighs.
Dry food is extremely high in carbohydrates, since it's mostly grain. Your kitty was meant to eat meat, not grain. The extra carbs are stored in his body as fat. Plus carb-rich food causes his blood sugar to stay higher for longer, causing insulin resistance. And he's well on his way to feline diabetes at this point. Most dry foods are low in protein. For this reason, feeding a high-quality canned food is healthier for your furball. And many kitties lose weight when they're changed over to canned food.
Don't get hung up on the recommended feeding instructions on the bag or can. It's a known fact that if you feed your kitty the amount recommended on the bag, he'll eventually get too heavy. A kitty that's been spayed or neutered needs only 75-80% of the amount of food an intact feline needs. Remember that spaying or neutering will NOT make your furry friend fat. He'll only get fat if you feed him too much. If your buddy doesn't get much exercise, he needs less food, too. And like humans, as your buddy gets older, his metabolism slows down, and he's more prone to gaining weight. So you may need to adjust his food intake as he ages. Regardless of what the bag says, if he's gaining weight, feed him less!
We love our furballs, and we think we need to show our love with food, which is why cat treats sell so well. Most of these treats have a high carb level, and flavoring that encourage your kitty to eat when he's not hungry. Sound familiar? If your kitty is roaming around restlessly and meowing, this is normal behavior for a feline. It doesn't mean he's hungry. Never give him a treat to make him be quiet. All you're doing is rewarding him for vocalizing, and he'll do it more. Give him your attention instead.
Most kitties seem to spend all their time sleeping. If you want your buddy to lose weight, you need to increase his activity level. This can be hard to do, as it's hard to take your kitty for a run like you would with a dog. Plus cats are often left alone for hours, and there's nothing else to do but sleep.
You may want to consider adopting a kitten. Once they get used to each other, they'll probably run around playing and chasing each other. If this isn't feasible, try to find some toys that will get him moving. He'd probably enjoy playing with a fishing pole-type toy. A video with chirping birds or rustling mice may get him up and stalking the TV set.
You need to monitor your buddy's weight so you can adjust his food intake if he starts gaining weight. Get a good scale, and weigh him at least once a week. Preventing weight gain is much easier than taking off unwanted pounds later.
Darlene L. Norris has been owned by many kitties over the years. Now I've combined my love for cats and my life-long interest in herbs and healing at Your Cat Care Guide Information on natural remedies for cats can be hard to find. Stay up-to-date on the latest herbal and homeopathic treatments for your feline friends!
You're feeding your cat a low-carb, high-protein diet, and making sure he's getting more exercise. Is there anything else you can do? Visit http://www.your-cat-care-guide.com/weight-management.html to learn about a natural remedy that's specially formulated to help your pet lose weight naturally by stimulating his metabolism and improving his his body's ability to eliminate fat.
Monday, November 19, 2007
Cat Lovers Rejoice! - Two New Innovative Products to Eliminate the Hassle of Litter Box Cleaning
By Richard Chandler
If you have a cat, or know someone who does, you are probably familiar with the unpleasant odor and cat's litter box can leave behind. Cat owners, especially those who own more than one cat, find themselves constantly bending down to clean out the litter box in order to keep it fresh. This chore is time-consuming, nauseating, and in many cases, tough on your back.
Two new products have recently been invented to make the lives of cat lovers much easier. Unique in their functionality and design, the CatGenie Self-Flushing, Self-Washing Cat Box and the Scoop Free Automatic Self Cleaning Litter Box use different methods and technology for the same goal: to help with the unpleasant task of keeping your cat's litter box clean and fresh.
Scoop Free Self Cleaning Litter Box
The Scoop Free Self Cleaning Litter Box is simple to use, requires no installation, and is very cost effective. Rather than having to deal with the mess associated with pouring cat litter from bags, this device uses its own cartridges that come filled with Fresh Step Crystals kitty litter. Simply lift the unit, remove the old cartridge, and replace it with a new one.
Because of the integrated system and design of the Scoop Free, cat owners can go up to a month without having to change the cartridge if they have one cat. When a cat uses the box, a motion sensor is activated and a twenty minute countdown begins. At the end of the countdown, the integrated rake moves across the litter pushing solid waste into the covered trap at the end. The rake then moves back across the litter to smooth it out and freshen it. There is no scooping (hence the name "Scoop Free"), bagging, or changing of any cartridges for up to a month. The Scoop Free includes an AC adaptor so it can be plugged into the wall and is roughly the same size as a normal cat litter box.
In addition to packs of additional cartridges, two other accessories are available for the Scoop Free Self Cleaning Litter Box. The optional litter box hood provides comfort and privacy for cats that are shy while the optional anti-tracking carpet sits in front of the box to keep your cat from tracking litter or waste through your home. The Scoop Free and its accessories make great holiday gifts for any cat lover and are a "must have" for anyone with physical limitations that make frequent litter box cleaning difficult.
CatGenie Self-Flushing, Self-Washing Cat Box
The CatGenie Self-Flushing, Self-Washing Cat Box is a very unique device that functions as a litter box, acts like a toilet, and cleans like a modern washing appliance. While it is more expensive than the Scoop Free and requires some installation, the CatGenie does not require any manual disposal of waste, scooping, or changing of cartridges.
Using litter-like, washable granules that never need changing, the CatGenie uses the water line and waste disposal abilities of your toilet. Once the cat uses the box, water and a special SaniSolution wash are flushed through it to clean the granules and push the solid waste into a special compartment where it is turned into liquid waste. The waste is then disposed of through your toilet or laundry waste line and the built-in hot air blower dries the granules. The entire process is completely automatic.
Washable granules and the SaniSolution are available for purchase separately along with higher side walls and the GenieDome for your cat's privacy. While it does require some one-time installation, the CatGenie is perfect for elderly people and those with physical disabilities as it eliminates the need to scoop waste and change liners or cartridges.
"How Will My Cat Adjust To These Devices?"
Different cats adjust to change in different ways. Typically cats take to these devices immediately, especially if you put them in the same location as where your old litter box was. In the beginning, you may wish to add a half scoop of your existing cat litter to the granules included with these two devices in order to help your cat adjust to the new box.
Cat lovers are sure to enjoy either one of these devices - your house will not be filled with the unpleasant cat litter odor, the back-straining chore of cleaning the box is eliminated, and most importantly, your cat will be happy.
Richard Chandler researches innovative new healthcare devices, medical supplies, and consumer products for ActiveForever and specializes in writing informative articles and web content. For more information on the Scoop Free Self Cleaning Litter Box or the CatGenie Self-Flushing, Self-Washing Cat Box please visit http://www.ActiveForever.com/
If you have a cat, or know someone who does, you are probably familiar with the unpleasant odor and cat's litter box can leave behind. Cat owners, especially those who own more than one cat, find themselves constantly bending down to clean out the litter box in order to keep it fresh. This chore is time-consuming, nauseating, and in many cases, tough on your back.
Two new products have recently been invented to make the lives of cat lovers much easier. Unique in their functionality and design, the CatGenie Self-Flushing, Self-Washing Cat Box and the Scoop Free Automatic Self Cleaning Litter Box use different methods and technology for the same goal: to help with the unpleasant task of keeping your cat's litter box clean and fresh.
Scoop Free Self Cleaning Litter Box
The Scoop Free Self Cleaning Litter Box is simple to use, requires no installation, and is very cost effective. Rather than having to deal with the mess associated with pouring cat litter from bags, this device uses its own cartridges that come filled with Fresh Step Crystals kitty litter. Simply lift the unit, remove the old cartridge, and replace it with a new one.
Because of the integrated system and design of the Scoop Free, cat owners can go up to a month without having to change the cartridge if they have one cat. When a cat uses the box, a motion sensor is activated and a twenty minute countdown begins. At the end of the countdown, the integrated rake moves across the litter pushing solid waste into the covered trap at the end. The rake then moves back across the litter to smooth it out and freshen it. There is no scooping (hence the name "Scoop Free"), bagging, or changing of any cartridges for up to a month. The Scoop Free includes an AC adaptor so it can be plugged into the wall and is roughly the same size as a normal cat litter box.
In addition to packs of additional cartridges, two other accessories are available for the Scoop Free Self Cleaning Litter Box. The optional litter box hood provides comfort and privacy for cats that are shy while the optional anti-tracking carpet sits in front of the box to keep your cat from tracking litter or waste through your home. The Scoop Free and its accessories make great holiday gifts for any cat lover and are a "must have" for anyone with physical limitations that make frequent litter box cleaning difficult.
CatGenie Self-Flushing, Self-Washing Cat Box
The CatGenie Self-Flushing, Self-Washing Cat Box is a very unique device that functions as a litter box, acts like a toilet, and cleans like a modern washing appliance. While it is more expensive than the Scoop Free and requires some installation, the CatGenie does not require any manual disposal of waste, scooping, or changing of cartridges.
Using litter-like, washable granules that never need changing, the CatGenie uses the water line and waste disposal abilities of your toilet. Once the cat uses the box, water and a special SaniSolution wash are flushed through it to clean the granules and push the solid waste into a special compartment where it is turned into liquid waste. The waste is then disposed of through your toilet or laundry waste line and the built-in hot air blower dries the granules. The entire process is completely automatic.
Washable granules and the SaniSolution are available for purchase separately along with higher side walls and the GenieDome for your cat's privacy. While it does require some one-time installation, the CatGenie is perfect for elderly people and those with physical disabilities as it eliminates the need to scoop waste and change liners or cartridges.
"How Will My Cat Adjust To These Devices?"
Different cats adjust to change in different ways. Typically cats take to these devices immediately, especially if you put them in the same location as where your old litter box was. In the beginning, you may wish to add a half scoop of your existing cat litter to the granules included with these two devices in order to help your cat adjust to the new box.
Cat lovers are sure to enjoy either one of these devices - your house will not be filled with the unpleasant cat litter odor, the back-straining chore of cleaning the box is eliminated, and most importantly, your cat will be happy.
Richard Chandler researches innovative new healthcare devices, medical supplies, and consumer products for ActiveForever and specializes in writing informative articles and web content. For more information on the Scoop Free Self Cleaning Litter Box or the CatGenie Self-Flushing, Self-Washing Cat Box please visit http://www.ActiveForever.com/
Saturday, November 17, 2007
The Wild Cat Jaguarundi
By Omer Ashraf
Jaguarundi is an interesting feline. It is unlike any other cat in its appearance, resembling an otter, with its small head, short rounded ear, elongated body and tail supported by small legs. Rightly, it has often been called 'Otter cat'. It may weigh from six to twenty pounds and is around forty inches long - excluding a twenty inch tail.
Unlike most other felines, the Jaguarundi, Puma Yaguarondi, has a completely uniformly colored coat. Cubs are spotted at birth like those of lions, but with time the spots disappear to give a coloration ranging from grayish brown to red. Previously the color variations were attributed to unique species of this cat - but now it is understood that they are a normal trait of the Jaguarundi - with different colored cubs found in the same litter. Genetically the Jaguarundi resembles the Jaguar and the Cougar, with a similar chromosomal number.
Though highly adaptable, the natural habitat of this wild cat is dense forest and shrub area. It is an adept fish hunter and is usually found near water courses. Birds are frequently preyed upon, as are rodents, small reptiles, frog and domestic poultry - something that often brings conflict with farmers. It's a good tree climber and a diurnal hunter. The predatory profile varies according to habitat as does its color - with paler variations found more in dry open areas and darker color seen in cats living in thickly forested parts.
Predominantly found in Mexico and South America, Jaguarundi has been seen in Texas, New Mexico and Florida. Various subspecies are recognized - based upon geographical distribution.
Puma Yaguarondi Armeghinoi - Chile and Argentina
Puma Yaguarondi Cacomitli - Mexico and Texas
Puma Yaguarondi Eyra - Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay
Puma Yaguarondi Fossata - Honduras and Mexico
Puma Yaguarondi Melantho - Brazil and Peru
Puma Yaguarondi Panamensis - Ecuador and Nicaragua
Puma Yaguarondi Tolteca - Arizona and Mexico
Puma Yaguarondi Yaguarondi - Guyana and the Amazon
Predominantly a solitary predator, Jaguarundi may be seen to travel in pairs or come together in bringing up of the young. The average litter size is one to four, born after a pregnancy lasting for nearly two and a half months. The young are introduced to regular food at six weeks and gain maturity at around two years. In captivity Jaguarundi has been known to live for up to fifteen years. In the wild the Jaguarundi is seldom sought for its fur - something that's fortunately not in high demand amongst traders. The primary danger to this unique wild cat is through deforestation and habitat destruction - largely due to human intervention in nature!
The author is a blogger about cats and an expert on jaguarundi.
Jaguarundi is an interesting feline. It is unlike any other cat in its appearance, resembling an otter, with its small head, short rounded ear, elongated body and tail supported by small legs. Rightly, it has often been called 'Otter cat'. It may weigh from six to twenty pounds and is around forty inches long - excluding a twenty inch tail.
Unlike most other felines, the Jaguarundi, Puma Yaguarondi, has a completely uniformly colored coat. Cubs are spotted at birth like those of lions, but with time the spots disappear to give a coloration ranging from grayish brown to red. Previously the color variations were attributed to unique species of this cat - but now it is understood that they are a normal trait of the Jaguarundi - with different colored cubs found in the same litter. Genetically the Jaguarundi resembles the Jaguar and the Cougar, with a similar chromosomal number.
Though highly adaptable, the natural habitat of this wild cat is dense forest and shrub area. It is an adept fish hunter and is usually found near water courses. Birds are frequently preyed upon, as are rodents, small reptiles, frog and domestic poultry - something that often brings conflict with farmers. It's a good tree climber and a diurnal hunter. The predatory profile varies according to habitat as does its color - with paler variations found more in dry open areas and darker color seen in cats living in thickly forested parts.
Predominantly found in Mexico and South America, Jaguarundi has been seen in Texas, New Mexico and Florida. Various subspecies are recognized - based upon geographical distribution.
Puma Yaguarondi Armeghinoi - Chile and Argentina
Puma Yaguarondi Cacomitli - Mexico and Texas
Puma Yaguarondi Eyra - Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay
Puma Yaguarondi Fossata - Honduras and Mexico
Puma Yaguarondi Melantho - Brazil and Peru
Puma Yaguarondi Panamensis - Ecuador and Nicaragua
Puma Yaguarondi Tolteca - Arizona and Mexico
Puma Yaguarondi Yaguarondi - Guyana and the Amazon
Predominantly a solitary predator, Jaguarundi may be seen to travel in pairs or come together in bringing up of the young. The average litter size is one to four, born after a pregnancy lasting for nearly two and a half months. The young are introduced to regular food at six weeks and gain maturity at around two years. In captivity Jaguarundi has been known to live for up to fifteen years. In the wild the Jaguarundi is seldom sought for its fur - something that's fortunately not in high demand amongst traders. The primary danger to this unique wild cat is through deforestation and habitat destruction - largely due to human intervention in nature!
The author is a blogger about cats and an expert on jaguarundi.
Thursday, November 15, 2007
Persian Cats Origins And Behaviours
By Jin Tuncit
PERSIAN (LONGHAIR) ORIGINS
Long-haired cats are thought to have originated in Asia. Specimens were first brought to the West by travelers during the 16th century. They reached Italy first ant then France and finally Britain. They were probably from Turkey, for they were commonly called Angora (the old name for Ankara). Later specimens, which came from Persia and Afghanistan, had a longer and denser coat and more cobby body. As breeding programs developed, the two distinctive types that we know today, the Angora and the Persian emerged. A book published in 1876 referred to long-haired cats as Asiatic cats. However, breeders were selecting for the more thickly coated and cobby type, increasingly known as the Persian, which was gaining favor over the Angora. By 1901 there were 13 recognized colors which had increased to 160 varieties by the end of the 20th century. In Britain the name was changed to Long-hair, but many countries have continued to call the breed Persian.
PERSIAN CATS PHYSICAL APPEARANCE
A long-haired cat of cobby type with relatively short legs. A distinctive snub nose makes it appear stern, but this is offset by large round eyes that enhance a sweet expression. The head is round and massive, with a great breadth of skull, round face, with round underlying bone structure, set on a short, thick neck. The nose is short, snub and broad, with a dip. The cheeks are full, the jaws broad and powerful and the chin is full and well developed. The ears are small, round-tipped, tilted forward and not unduly open at the base. They are set far apart and low on the head, fitting into (without distorting) the round contour of the head. The eyes are round and full, brilliant, set far apart, giving the face a sweet expression. The tail is short but in proportion to the body length, carried without a curve and at an angle lower than the back. The body is cobby. Large or medium in size, set low on legs. The chest is deep and equally massive across the shoulders and rump, with a short, well-rounded middle piece and level back. The legs are short, thick and strong.
The coat is long and thick, standing out from the body, of fine texture, glossy and full of life. It is long over the body, but a slight shortening of the coat across the shoulder area is not uncommon in older kittens when the coat is changing. The ruff is immense and continues in a deep frill between the front legs. The ear ad toe tufts are very full.
PERSIAN CATS CHARACTERISTICS
It is generally amiable, docile and good-natured, with a soft voice. The Persian's languid nature has earned it a rather undeserved reputation for laziness.
To view the Cutest and the most beautiful Persian cat pictures, please visit my blog at:- http://cuteycats2u.blogspot.com/2007/11/persian-cats-origins-and-behaviours.html
Cuteycats2u.blogspot.com also contains useful cat care and training advises, funny cat videos, cute cat pictures and cat stories. Have fun!!
PERSIAN (LONGHAIR) ORIGINS
Long-haired cats are thought to have originated in Asia. Specimens were first brought to the West by travelers during the 16th century. They reached Italy first ant then France and finally Britain. They were probably from Turkey, for they were commonly called Angora (the old name for Ankara). Later specimens, which came from Persia and Afghanistan, had a longer and denser coat and more cobby body. As breeding programs developed, the two distinctive types that we know today, the Angora and the Persian emerged. A book published in 1876 referred to long-haired cats as Asiatic cats. However, breeders were selecting for the more thickly coated and cobby type, increasingly known as the Persian, which was gaining favor over the Angora. By 1901 there were 13 recognized colors which had increased to 160 varieties by the end of the 20th century. In Britain the name was changed to Long-hair, but many countries have continued to call the breed Persian.
PERSIAN CATS PHYSICAL APPEARANCE
A long-haired cat of cobby type with relatively short legs. A distinctive snub nose makes it appear stern, but this is offset by large round eyes that enhance a sweet expression. The head is round and massive, with a great breadth of skull, round face, with round underlying bone structure, set on a short, thick neck. The nose is short, snub and broad, with a dip. The cheeks are full, the jaws broad and powerful and the chin is full and well developed. The ears are small, round-tipped, tilted forward and not unduly open at the base. They are set far apart and low on the head, fitting into (without distorting) the round contour of the head. The eyes are round and full, brilliant, set far apart, giving the face a sweet expression. The tail is short but in proportion to the body length, carried without a curve and at an angle lower than the back. The body is cobby. Large or medium in size, set low on legs. The chest is deep and equally massive across the shoulders and rump, with a short, well-rounded middle piece and level back. The legs are short, thick and strong.
The coat is long and thick, standing out from the body, of fine texture, glossy and full of life. It is long over the body, but a slight shortening of the coat across the shoulder area is not uncommon in older kittens when the coat is changing. The ruff is immense and continues in a deep frill between the front legs. The ear ad toe tufts are very full.
PERSIAN CATS CHARACTERISTICS
It is generally amiable, docile and good-natured, with a soft voice. The Persian's languid nature has earned it a rather undeserved reputation for laziness.
To view the Cutest and the most beautiful Persian cat pictures, please visit my blog at:- http://cuteycats2u.blogspot.com/2007/11/persian-cats-origins-and-behaviours.html
Cuteycats2u.blogspot.com also contains useful cat care and training advises, funny cat videos, cute cat pictures and cat stories. Have fun!!
Tuesday, November 13, 2007
Lost Cats or Strays - What if You Found One?
By Joy Cagil
A pet owner will probably know what to do if his pet is lost. A responsible person will always register his animal with the local authorities and will have the animal wear a tag on his collar. He might also decide to have a microchip installed between the shoulder blades of the animal.
What if you are not a pet owner but found a stray cat or kitten in a busy road or in the middle of nowhere? Such an animal deserves immediate care; otherwise, a car or a bigger animal could kill him, or worse yet, he could fall into the hands of cruel people.
The first thing to do in such a case is to approach the animal slowly with a gentle manner and gain his confidence. If the animal seems friendly enough and allows a stranger to handle him, looking for some kind of identification is the next step. If his tag has the owner's phone number, you can call the owner immediately. If the cat has a license number on his tag, the local county animal agency can trace the animal to the owner.
If the animal has no identification, you may take him to a shelter or to the local animal control agency. If you are afraid the local agency will euthanize the animal, you can ask them to trace the owners and offer to become his temporary adopter until they can do so.
The next step is to take the animal to a veterinarian, even before you take him home with you. This is very important, because you don't know if the animal you found has a sickness or a disease that can infect you, your family members, and your other pets at home. Zoonoses, rabies, cowpox, ringworm, pasteurella, tetanus, Campylobacter enteritis, cat scratch fever, conjunctivitis, Lyme disease, Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, salmonella, toxoplasmosis, hookworms, roundworms, tapeworms, and even plague can be transmitted from cats to humans or to other animals.
If you see a lost cat in the middle of a busy road, take care of your safety first by checking the rear-view window before stopping, signaling your intention, using your hazard lights, and then stopping by the side of the road at a safe place. Don't jump out of our car suddenly, and try to act calmly toward the animal. If he feels uneasy and becomes afraid of you, he may suddenly rush into the traffic and may get killed.
Also, if the animal looks hostile and threatening, it is a better idea to call for help rather than handle him yourself. If the animal is injured, signal the other cars to slow down until you can get the animal to relative safety or find a suitable carrier to take him to your car.
When you approach the animal, make sure he sees you and understands that you are a friend. Try to talk to him in a gentle voice and offer him food if you have it with you. If you have a carrier or a box in the car, put the cat inside it, making sure he gets enough air. An unrestrained animal whose behavior is unknown to you can be a danger to himself and to your driving.
The last but not the least is not to become too attached to a found animal. Not all cats that are lost have irresponsible owners or are abandoned. Some animals just wander away and get lost, while their owners grieve. If you take the lost animal to your home and he becomes part of your household, be ready to hand him over to his original owner if you can find him and if that owner shows up for his pet.
If you want to help stray animals, you may opt to keep some emergency equipment in your car: A carrier or a sturdy box lined with a towel with breathing holes; fresh water and a saucer; dry cat food; the phone numbers of pet shelters, veterinarians, and the local animal control agency.
As animal lovers, we need to keep this in mind: Animals that cannot defend themselves depend on us for survival. We need to do for them what we would want someone else do for us in our hour of need.
This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pets.
Joy Cagil's portfolio can be found at http://www.Writing.Com/authors/joycag
A pet owner will probably know what to do if his pet is lost. A responsible person will always register his animal with the local authorities and will have the animal wear a tag on his collar. He might also decide to have a microchip installed between the shoulder blades of the animal.
What if you are not a pet owner but found a stray cat or kitten in a busy road or in the middle of nowhere? Such an animal deserves immediate care; otherwise, a car or a bigger animal could kill him, or worse yet, he could fall into the hands of cruel people.
The first thing to do in such a case is to approach the animal slowly with a gentle manner and gain his confidence. If the animal seems friendly enough and allows a stranger to handle him, looking for some kind of identification is the next step. If his tag has the owner's phone number, you can call the owner immediately. If the cat has a license number on his tag, the local county animal agency can trace the animal to the owner.
If the animal has no identification, you may take him to a shelter or to the local animal control agency. If you are afraid the local agency will euthanize the animal, you can ask them to trace the owners and offer to become his temporary adopter until they can do so.
The next step is to take the animal to a veterinarian, even before you take him home with you. This is very important, because you don't know if the animal you found has a sickness or a disease that can infect you, your family members, and your other pets at home. Zoonoses, rabies, cowpox, ringworm, pasteurella, tetanus, Campylobacter enteritis, cat scratch fever, conjunctivitis, Lyme disease, Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, salmonella, toxoplasmosis, hookworms, roundworms, tapeworms, and even plague can be transmitted from cats to humans or to other animals.
If you see a lost cat in the middle of a busy road, take care of your safety first by checking the rear-view window before stopping, signaling your intention, using your hazard lights, and then stopping by the side of the road at a safe place. Don't jump out of our car suddenly, and try to act calmly toward the animal. If he feels uneasy and becomes afraid of you, he may suddenly rush into the traffic and may get killed.
Also, if the animal looks hostile and threatening, it is a better idea to call for help rather than handle him yourself. If the animal is injured, signal the other cars to slow down until you can get the animal to relative safety or find a suitable carrier to take him to your car.
When you approach the animal, make sure he sees you and understands that you are a friend. Try to talk to him in a gentle voice and offer him food if you have it with you. If you have a carrier or a box in the car, put the cat inside it, making sure he gets enough air. An unrestrained animal whose behavior is unknown to you can be a danger to himself and to your driving.
The last but not the least is not to become too attached to a found animal. Not all cats that are lost have irresponsible owners or are abandoned. Some animals just wander away and get lost, while their owners grieve. If you take the lost animal to your home and he becomes part of your household, be ready to hand him over to his original owner if you can find him and if that owner shows up for his pet.
If you want to help stray animals, you may opt to keep some emergency equipment in your car: A carrier or a sturdy box lined with a towel with breathing holes; fresh water and a saucer; dry cat food; the phone numbers of pet shelters, veterinarians, and the local animal control agency.
As animal lovers, we need to keep this in mind: Animals that cannot defend themselves depend on us for survival. We need to do for them what we would want someone else do for us in our hour of need.
This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pets.
Joy Cagil's portfolio can be found at http://www.Writing.Com/authors/joycag
Sunday, November 11, 2007
Cat Trees - Make Your Own and Make Your Kitty Happier
By Jennifer Akre
Cats love to scratch. It's just part of their DNA and who they are. Your trick is giving them something to scratch other than your furniture. Luckily there is a whole world of cat trees out there for you to choose from. Cat trees are those carpet-covered posts that cats can't wait to sink their claws into. If you're creative and want a weekend project, you could even build one yourself.
Here is the list of things you will need:
- 2 Pieces of 2'x2' plywood
- 1 Piece 18" x 18" plywood
- 1 2"x4" that's 6' - 8' long
- 4 long nails
- 8 - 3 inch screws
- Wood Glue
- Fabric 2 pieces 1- 3' x 3', 1 2' x 2' to cover the base and perch.
- Roll of 3/8" sisal rope (or about 500')
Take two of the pieces of plywood (2'x2') and glue them together, making a heavier base. Set them aside to dry.
Cut the 2x4 in order to make two pieces the same size. This piece will be the scratching post portion of the cat trees, so you need to make sure it is long enough that your cat can fully stretch out to scratch. For most cats, 3' - 4' pieces will do.
Now, you are going to put these two pieces side by side (long flat sides touching), to make a long, squared center post. Use some wood glue to hold the pieces together then use an electronic screwdriver to drive the screws through the pieces. You should alternate the screws going in from one side then the other, with none of them within three inches of the top or bottom of the post. If you need to, for harder woods, you can drill a starter hole, but make sure it does not go all the way through both pieces of wood.
Take the single piece of plywood remaining, and center it on the 2x4 post. You need to drive two nails through the plywood, one into each of the 2x4's setting up the post for maximum strength.
It's time to attach fabric to the base and the top of the cat trees. Taking one piece of fabric, wrap it around the base pieces of plywood that have been glued together, pull the edges of the fabric around and staple them to the underside of the plywood. When you turn it over you should have a fabric-covered base. Repeat with the perch piece.
Now you need to put it all together. Put the perch and post face down, and center the base upside down on top of it. Essentially you should be seeing what the cat trees will look like flipped over. You need to drive two nails through the base and into the 2 x 4's to make one solid piece.
Turn it right side up and slather the post with wood glue. Starting at either the top of the bottom tightly wrap the whole post with the sisal rope.
Once it's dry, set it out for your cat's claw of approval.
As the owner of many online sites, author Jennifer Akre, shares her insight on how to make your pet's living space more comfortable with couture cat furniture, fabulous cat houses and stylish cat trees.
Cats love to scratch. It's just part of their DNA and who they are. Your trick is giving them something to scratch other than your furniture. Luckily there is a whole world of cat trees out there for you to choose from. Cat trees are those carpet-covered posts that cats can't wait to sink their claws into. If you're creative and want a weekend project, you could even build one yourself.
Here is the list of things you will need:
- 2 Pieces of 2'x2' plywood
- 1 Piece 18" x 18" plywood
- 1 2"x4" that's 6' - 8' long
- 4 long nails
- 8 - 3 inch screws
- Wood Glue
- Fabric 2 pieces 1- 3' x 3', 1 2' x 2' to cover the base and perch.
- Roll of 3/8" sisal rope (or about 500')
Take two of the pieces of plywood (2'x2') and glue them together, making a heavier base. Set them aside to dry.
Cut the 2x4 in order to make two pieces the same size. This piece will be the scratching post portion of the cat trees, so you need to make sure it is long enough that your cat can fully stretch out to scratch. For most cats, 3' - 4' pieces will do.
Now, you are going to put these two pieces side by side (long flat sides touching), to make a long, squared center post. Use some wood glue to hold the pieces together then use an electronic screwdriver to drive the screws through the pieces. You should alternate the screws going in from one side then the other, with none of them within three inches of the top or bottom of the post. If you need to, for harder woods, you can drill a starter hole, but make sure it does not go all the way through both pieces of wood.
Take the single piece of plywood remaining, and center it on the 2x4 post. You need to drive two nails through the plywood, one into each of the 2x4's setting up the post for maximum strength.
It's time to attach fabric to the base and the top of the cat trees. Taking one piece of fabric, wrap it around the base pieces of plywood that have been glued together, pull the edges of the fabric around and staple them to the underside of the plywood. When you turn it over you should have a fabric-covered base. Repeat with the perch piece.
Now you need to put it all together. Put the perch and post face down, and center the base upside down on top of it. Essentially you should be seeing what the cat trees will look like flipped over. You need to drive two nails through the base and into the 2 x 4's to make one solid piece.
Turn it right side up and slather the post with wood glue. Starting at either the top of the bottom tightly wrap the whole post with the sisal rope.
Once it's dry, set it out for your cat's claw of approval.
As the owner of many online sites, author Jennifer Akre, shares her insight on how to make your pet's living space more comfortable with couture cat furniture, fabulous cat houses and stylish cat trees.
Friday, November 9, 2007
Cat Vitamin Recall - Protect You and Your Cat from Salmonella
By Marika Ray
At the urging of the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), the Hartz Mountain Corporation is voluntarily recalling one specific lot of its product, Hartz Vitamin Care for Cats. On November 5, 2007, during routine tests, the FDA discovered that the supplements may possibly be contaminated with Salmonella. The Hartz Company of Baconton, Georgia is fully cooperating on the recall.
Who Is At Risk?
Salmonella is a bacterial organism that can cause serious infections in animals, young children, frail and elderly adults as well as those who have weakened immune systems. Anyone who falls into one of these categories is at risk and needs to avoid exposure to or handling of these cat supplements.
How Does Salmonella Cause Disease?
Salmonella is an intestinal disease spread by bacteria. After the food, or in this case the vitamin, is eaten or taken it passes into the intestines and binds to the intestinal walls. Through some special proteins it creates, it can penetrate the bloodstream.
Once it is inside, it can travel to the liver or spleen. Other types of intestinal bacteria would normally be killed by this process. However, Salmonella has evolved to escape the immune system's function to destroy it. When the Salmonella reaches the liver or spleen it can grow again and be released back into the intestines. At that point, some will be expelled in diarrhea while others will continue the growth process for up to 5 to 7 days.
Once the Salmonella bacteria are expelled from the body, however, they can survive in soil, ground water or rivers to infect the next animal or human that comes along. Because cats use litter boxes and the outdoors, owners who have used this product need to be extremely careful.
What Can You Do to Prevent Salmonella infections?
The best way to prevent the spread of Salmonella is by using safe hygiene. If your cat has used this product and typically goes outdoors, make sure to keep them inside for at least a week.
Dispose your cat's litter daily in plastic bags that have been tied securely.
Put the trash bags in your garbage can immediately.
Disinfect your cat litter box and tools often.
Wash your hands and any contact surfaces with soap and water frequently.
What Are the Symptoms of Salmonella?
Salmonella symptoms can occur in both cats and humans. There are four major symptoms.
Fever
Diarrhea
Abdominal pain
Nausea
If cat owners experience any of these symptoms after using the Hartz Vitamin Care for Cats, they are advised to seek immediate medical attention. Cats who exhibit any of these symptoms should be taken immediately to a veterinarian for diagnosis and treatment.
How Do You Know if You Have the Affected Product?
The product involved is 3,600 bottles of Hartz Vitamin Care for Cats, lot code SZ- 1637 1, UPC number 32700-97701, which was manufactured by a third party manufacturer, UFAC (USA), Inc., in Baconton, Georgia.
While normal testing conducted by Hartz and UFAC has not revealed the presence of Salmonella in any Hartz products, sampling conducted by the FDA did detect the presence of Salmonella. Hartz is aggressively investigating the source of the problem.
What Can You Do with the Affected Product?
Hartz has not received any reports yet that indicate any cats or people have become ill from the vitamin product in question. They are taking precautions to have retail stores and distribution centers remove it from shelves or online sales.
Cat owners should immediately stop using the product and dispose of it quickly and properly. Consumers can contact Hartz at 1-800-275-1414 if they have questions or would like to be reimbursed for the purchased product.
Sources: Associated Press and Salmonella.org
Marika Ray, researcher and writer for Natural Cat Lovers, has 20 years of experience writing for
advertising agencies, magazines and newspapers. She has researched many areas of natural health and has written website articles for nearly a decade. She is the caretaker of four cats she has nurtured
using only natural remedies and behavior methods. She now shares news and tips on cat health care.
At the urging of the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), the Hartz Mountain Corporation is voluntarily recalling one specific lot of its product, Hartz Vitamin Care for Cats. On November 5, 2007, during routine tests, the FDA discovered that the supplements may possibly be contaminated with Salmonella. The Hartz Company of Baconton, Georgia is fully cooperating on the recall.
Who Is At Risk?
Salmonella is a bacterial organism that can cause serious infections in animals, young children, frail and elderly adults as well as those who have weakened immune systems. Anyone who falls into one of these categories is at risk and needs to avoid exposure to or handling of these cat supplements.
How Does Salmonella Cause Disease?
Salmonella is an intestinal disease spread by bacteria. After the food, or in this case the vitamin, is eaten or taken it passes into the intestines and binds to the intestinal walls. Through some special proteins it creates, it can penetrate the bloodstream.
Once it is inside, it can travel to the liver or spleen. Other types of intestinal bacteria would normally be killed by this process. However, Salmonella has evolved to escape the immune system's function to destroy it. When the Salmonella reaches the liver or spleen it can grow again and be released back into the intestines. At that point, some will be expelled in diarrhea while others will continue the growth process for up to 5 to 7 days.
Once the Salmonella bacteria are expelled from the body, however, they can survive in soil, ground water or rivers to infect the next animal or human that comes along. Because cats use litter boxes and the outdoors, owners who have used this product need to be extremely careful.
What Can You Do to Prevent Salmonella infections?
The best way to prevent the spread of Salmonella is by using safe hygiene. If your cat has used this product and typically goes outdoors, make sure to keep them inside for at least a week.
Dispose your cat's litter daily in plastic bags that have been tied securely.
Put the trash bags in your garbage can immediately.
Disinfect your cat litter box and tools often.
Wash your hands and any contact surfaces with soap and water frequently.
What Are the Symptoms of Salmonella?
Salmonella symptoms can occur in both cats and humans. There are four major symptoms.
Fever
Diarrhea
Abdominal pain
Nausea
If cat owners experience any of these symptoms after using the Hartz Vitamin Care for Cats, they are advised to seek immediate medical attention. Cats who exhibit any of these symptoms should be taken immediately to a veterinarian for diagnosis and treatment.
How Do You Know if You Have the Affected Product?
The product involved is 3,600 bottles of Hartz Vitamin Care for Cats, lot code SZ- 1637 1, UPC number 32700-97701, which was manufactured by a third party manufacturer, UFAC (USA), Inc., in Baconton, Georgia.
While normal testing conducted by Hartz and UFAC has not revealed the presence of Salmonella in any Hartz products, sampling conducted by the FDA did detect the presence of Salmonella. Hartz is aggressively investigating the source of the problem.
What Can You Do with the Affected Product?
Hartz has not received any reports yet that indicate any cats or people have become ill from the vitamin product in question. They are taking precautions to have retail stores and distribution centers remove it from shelves or online sales.
Cat owners should immediately stop using the product and dispose of it quickly and properly. Consumers can contact Hartz at 1-800-275-1414 if they have questions or would like to be reimbursed for the purchased product.
Sources: Associated Press and Salmonella.org
Marika Ray, researcher and writer for Natural Cat Lovers, has 20 years of experience writing for
advertising agencies, magazines and newspapers. She has researched many areas of natural health and has written website articles for nearly a decade. She is the caretaker of four cats she has nurtured
using only natural remedies and behavior methods. She now shares news and tips on cat health care.
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